After the rebuild, it is time for installation back into the vehicle. The goal is to re-install items as they were removed so as not to have to spend a large amount of time backtracking. That is why I encourage people to lay parts out in the same order as they are removed. It just makes the job easier.
The 7.3 engine installations are not that complicated. For the 1994 to 1997 models, there is ample room inside the engine compartment and the firewall area to maneuver the engine and install the accessory components.
This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, HOW TO REBUILD FORD POWER STROKE DIESEL ENGINES 1994-2007. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE
SHARE THIS ARTICLE: Please feel free to share this post on Facebook / Twitter / Google+ or any automotive Forums or blogs you read. You can use the social sharing buttons to the left, or copy and paste the website link: https://www.diyford.com/install-break-ford-power-stroke-engines/
When working on a 1998 to 2002 model, the front end of the vehicle (hood and fenders) can be removed for easier removal and installation. The installation of the 7.3 engine for this chapter was performed on a 1997-model truck to display some of the difficulty when the components of the vehicle cannot be removed. The Power Stroke Diesel is much heavier than a comparable gasoline engine, so it’s important to use the right equipment and proper safety measures when using the engine hoist.
Step-1: Mount Transmission Adaptor Plate
Mount the transmission adaptor plate to the back of the block. The adaptor is held in place by two dowels. The adaptor needs to be installed before the flywheel or flex plate can be mounted to the crankshaft.
Step-2: Mount Flywheel
Mount the flywheel or flex plate to the crankshaft. Make sure to use Loctite on the bolts.
Step-1: Use Hoist
Secure a chain through the engine lifting brackets that are fastened to the cylinder heads of the engine. Attach the chain to the engine hoist and lower the engine into the engine compartment.
Step-2: Install Motor Mounts
After the motor mounts have been placed in the proper location of the crossmember, place the nuts on the studs of the motor mounts and tighten.
Step-3: Remove Hoist
Once the motor mounts are secure, the engine hoist can be removed and accessories can be installed.
Fuel and Oil Systems
Step-1: Attach Rear Fuel Lines
Attach the rear fuel lines loosely to the engine at the fittings on the cylinder heads. When attaching these lines, there is a small rubber washer in each of the fittings. Make sure to purchase and install new rubber washers into the fittings.
Step-2: Install Wiring Harness
Place the engine wiring harness on the engine. Most of the connections of the sensors can be mated to the wiring harness at this time. (Some connections are installed as the rest of the components are installed.)
Step-3: Attach Oil Lines (Important!)
Attach the high-pressure oil lines to the HPOP and cylinder heads. If the integrity of the high-pressure oil lines is in question, make sure to replace them. This is a very critical component of the Power Stroke engine.
Step-4: Mount Fuel Pump and Filter Basket
For this 1997 model truck, the fuel pump is mechanical, meaning it is mounted in the center of the top of the engine. The fuel filter basket, along with the mechanical pump, are easier to install if mounted together. The pump and filter basket are attached by a rubber hose at the bottom that are nearly impossible to attach if mounted separately.
Step-5: Mount Turbo
Mount the turbo to the engine. The turbo is attached to a mounting pedestal and is installed as an assembly. Once the turbo is mounted, the intake tube can be installed to the intake manifold. The rest of the components of the wiring harness can also be completed.
Front Drive and Cooling Systems
Step-1: Install Accessories
The accessories of the engine can now be installed. This includes the mounting brackets to the front of the engine, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, alternator, and drive belt. Do in reverse order from disassembly.
Step-2: Install Radiator
Install the radiator into the engine compartment. Attach the lower radiator hose.
Step-3: Install Fan and Shroud (Special Tool)
Install the engine cooling fan and fan shroud between the radiator and engine. Remember, the fan is mounted to the water pump by a large nut cast integrally into the fan. Turn the fan clockwise to fasten to the water pump. Make sure to tighten the fan to the water pump using a special wrench for this application.
Step-4: Install Coolant Hoses
The rest of the coolant hoses can be installed. This includes the upper radiator hose, heater hoses, and hoses from the degas bottle.
Step-5: Install Turbo Hose
If your turbo inlet tubing has taken a beating over the years and started to deteriorate (above), there is a replacement turbo hose kit from Ford for this application. The kit (PN F7TZ- 9C681-AA) comes with the replacement hose, new mounting hardware, and brackets (right).
Step-1: Install Exhaust Up Pipes
With the engine and components in place on the top side, install the exhaust up pipes from underneath the vehicle using new gaskets. These gaskets come from Ford.
Step-2: Install Exhaust Down Pipe
Attach the exhaust down pipe to the turbo. If the stock exhaust system is going to be used, the down pipe needs to be placed into the engine compartment before the engine is installed for 1994 to 1997 models. The down pipe for these models does not fit between the firewall and transmission once the engine has been installed.
Step-1: Service Cooling System
For the 7.3, reputable green antifreeze can be used (left). Make sure to use a reputable cooling system additive (CSA) also (right). Follow manufacturer directions for your climate conditions.
Step-2: Choose Motor Oil (Professional Mechanic Tip)
For break-in purposes and for those of you who use mineralbased oil, I strongly suggest the use of Motorcraft 15w-40 Diesel oil. It was designed specifically for this engine and offers the best in wear protection outside the use of synthetics. The engine holds 15 quarts. Fill the crankcase with 14 quarts and save a quart to be used for the initial startup.
Step-3: Add Oil to Reservoir
Before startup of the 7.3, remove the small plug in the top right of the HPOP reservoir. Add the remaining quart of oil into the reservoir. This primes the HPOP system for engine startup.
Step-4: Install Fuel Filter
Make sure to install a new fuel filter into the fuel filter basket.
Most trucks with a 6.0 engine use automatic transmissions, and trying to align the torque converter bolts with the flex plate can be a challenge. There are a lot more components on this engine compared to the 7.3, as well as more sensors and a bigger wiring harness. The great thing is that the front end of the vehicle can be removed allowing easier access to components. The installation shown is the way it’s typically performed at a shop or repair facility.
Step-1: Clean and Paint Frame
Before installation, be sure to clean the frame area and paint if necessary. Place a jack under the transmission so that the transmission can be raised as high as possible in order to mate with the engine.
Step-2: Install Engine (Professional Mechanic Tip)
Lower the engine into position, mating it with the transmission. Remember, if the transmission is an automatic, make sure to align the studs in the torque converter with the flex plate. To make installation easier, leave the intake manifold off. This allows a little more room for other components to be placed onto the engine.
Step-1: Install Up Pipes
After the engine is installed and mated to the transmission, work on placing the exhaust up pipes into the engine compartment. Make sure to install them loosely until the turbo is installed.
Step-2: Install Intake Manifold
Next, install the intake manifold and properly route the wiring harness so the remaining components can be installed.
Step-3: Install Pedestal and Drain Tube
Install the turbo-mounting pedestal and the turbo drain tube. Make sure that the turbo oil drain tube is properly seated into the cover of the HPOP with new O-rings.
Step-4: Install Turbo
At this time, it is best to install the turbo. After the turbo is secure, tighten the exhaust up pipes and the exhaust down pipes.
Oil, Fuel and Glow Plug Systems
Step-1: Mount Glow Plug Controller
Mount the glow plug controller and the wiring harness for the injectors.
Step-2: Install Oil and Fuel Filter Housing
Install the oil and fuel filter housing to the oil cooler and fasten the fuel lines.
Step-3: Install Remaining Components
At this point, the remaining components on the top end of the engine can be installed. These include the fuel injection control module (FICM), alternator, connections of all sensors, power steering pump, air conditioning compressor, drive belt, and fuel line connections on the frame.
Finalize Accessory Installations
Step-1: Install Inner Fan Shroud
Next, install the inner fan shroud then attach the clutch fan to the water pump. The inner fan shroud bolts to the intake manifold and engine block.
Step-2: Install Radiator/Transmission Cooler
Now the radiator and outer fan shroud, intercooler, transmission cooler, and upper radiator support can be installed on the front of the vehicle.
Step-3: Install Battery Tray
Re-install the driver-side battery tray and connect the engine wiring harness to the PCM.
Step-4: Install Turbo Piping
Install the intercooler piping from the turbo to the intercooler on the passenger’s side and from the intercooler to the snorkel on the intake manifold on the driver’s side.
Step-5: Install Headlights and Grille
The headlights and grille can be reinstalled into the front of the vehicle.
Step-6: Install Degas Bottle (Important!)
Install the coolant degas bottle, turbo intake tube, and air filter. Be sure to fill the coolant system with the Ford “gold” antifreeze or equivalent for this 6.0 application.
Step-7: Tighten Clutch Fan
Before starting the engine, remember to tighten the clutch fan onto the water pump using a special tool.
One thing that needs to be discussed is the subject of pre-oiling the engine before startup. There is really no convenient way of pre-oiling the engine unless you choose to purchase an aftermarket pre-oiling device from an oil pump manufacturer such as Melling. With such a device, you simply remove the oil pressure sending unit and attach the supplied hose in the kit, which feeds oil to the engine’s oil galleys from a pressurized tank that you fill with the correct amount of oil.
These devices can be quite costly for a one-time rebuild use. My suggestion is to assemble the engine with proper bearing grease so the bearings are protected during the cranking process. The engine has to spin over quite a few times before there is ignition. All of the high-pressure oil galleys must be filled in order for the injectors to be actuated.
Once it starts, check for leaks. Allow engine to reach normal operating temperature, and drive conservatively for the first 1,500 miles.
Written by Bob McDonald and Republished with Permission of CarTech Inc