After many hours of difficult, dirty work and hard-earned dollars spent, you’ve almost reached the point where you can reap the rewards. The average manufacturer’s shop manual reads, “Reassemble in reverse order of disassembly,” or words to that effect. Well I’m here to tell you that it isn’t quite that simple. But with proper planning and preparation, getting the engine back into the car shouldn’t be too difficult.
This is a great time to break out your notes and photographic record of the steps taken during the engine removal and give them the onceover. I prefer to leave as many of the bolt-on accessories off the engine as possible during installation for two reasons. First, without accessories, the engine is more compact and easier to manipulate. Second, access to important things such as engine mounts is much easier with as few obstructions as possible.
This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, HOW TO REBUILD BIG-BLOCK FORD ENGINES. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
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Take the time to prepare the engine compartment by ensuring that all wires, linkages, etc. are safely out of the way. Make sure that the car is level and secure from rolling or falling and cover or pad any painted or soft surfaces to avoid damage. Enlist the help of a couple friends, which makes lowering the engine into the car and aligning the mounts to the frame much easier. And remember: take your time. There is no need to rush, so if something isn’t going correctly stop, assess the situation, and then proceed. Once the engine is securely bolted into the car, you can set about installing the external parts and accessories. Referring to your notes and photos will be of great assistance here.
Step-1: Install Flywheel/Flex Plate to Engine
Once the engine has been unbolted from the stand, the flywheel/ automatic transmission flex plate is installed just prior to lifting the engine into the car. Remember, the flywheel bolt holes will only align to those in the crankshaft one way, so if you neglected to mark them during disassembly, some fiddling will be required. Torque flywheel bolts to 75 to 85 ft-lbs.
Step-2: Install Exhaust Manifolds
Install the exhaust manifolds on the engine before it goes back into the car. This will help you avoid a sore back and skinned knuckles later. These pieces are heavy and there is very little room to work around them once the engine is in the car.
Step-3: Prepare the Engine Compartment
We have prepared the engine compartment to receive the 429 well in advance of the actual install taking place. Aside from the obvious cleaning and painting, any hoses, wires, brackets, etc. that might interfere with the engine going in have been secured out of the way. The fenders have been heavily padded to avoid damage from dropped tools or belt buckles.
Step-4: Lift Engine into Vehicle
Think safety first and foremost when lifting the engine back into the car. The car should be leveled and blocked against rolling. The help of at least one or two friends to guide the engine and/or operate the hoist is a must.
Step-5: Maintain Pressure on Hoist
Step-6: Align to Mounts
Step-7: Correct Any Misalignments
Step-8: Bolt Engine Securely into Place
Step-9: Install Bolt-Ons
Written by Charles R. Morris and Republished with Permission of CarTech Inc