How to Start a Mustang Restoration Project – Step by Step

In Chapter 1, I provided some advice on how to better define the type of restoration project you intend to pursue and what type of vehicle might be best suited for it. I also gave some tips on where to look for a vehicle and things to avoid. And I covered some resources you can use to help ensure you’re getting what you are paying for— that the vehicle is what the seller says it is. Assuming you now have a better idea of what you want to do and have a vehicle to restore, let’s get into the actual process of what you need to do to begin the Ford Mustang Restoration project.

The first thing to do is to evaluate the overall condition of the vehicle and identify the areas that require restoration. You’ve already done this to some extent by now, but it needs to be done again with a different emphasis and in greater detail. You may have noticed some things to address when you were looking the car over before you bought it. Now that you have the car in your possession, you can thoroughly inspect it and come up with a comprehensive list of tasks. This will not be the final list because you will surely find other components and areas to restore as you take the vehicle apart. In Ford Mustang Restoration Guide, I cover some of these more specific evaluations in subsequent chapters, as is appropriate. For now, I want to explore some of the bigger items to incorporate into your overall planning for the project.

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This vehicle is the primary subject of this book. It was stored for more than 20 years, yet it was still in good running condition after it was given some very minimal attention (flush out the cooling system, oil change, new gas, etc.). The body is solid with only a few dings and dents, and no need for any significant panel replacements. The glass is all original and intact. The interior is in fantastic condition, and the car is close to original, except for some headers and a few other minor changes. The history of the car was well documented. We decided to undertake a weekend-cruiser project because it was such a great canvas to work with, and we wanted to drive it a lot without any age or performance limitations.

The type of project you’re planning, and the time and funds that can be allocated to it, dictate how the project is structured. Someone with a daily driver may just do things on an as-needed basis and/or when the funds become available, thus requiring little or no real planning. This mainly involves the removal and replacement of components only and does not require disassembly of the whole vehicle. Painting, if done, is on an individual panel basis, at most. The owner of a show car may want to complete the project in a linear fashion but may not be very concerned about how long it takes or the final cost. Such a project inevitably involves a complete disassembly of the vehicle, which most likely ends up on a rotisserie. The vehicle is completely stripped down to bare metal and then fully prepped and painted to a very high standard.

The restoration project of a weekend cruiser shown in this book falls between these two extremes. It’s done in a more focused fashion than the pay-as-you-go, daily-driver situation, but it is also done on a schedule more sensitive to time and finances than a typical show-car project. I provide much useful information that applies to those situations as well, but our focus will be on a restoration project that should take several months to a year to complete. Also, it generally tends to have lower overall project expense.

Here is a typical scenario for a moderate weekend-cruiser-type project: We found a very good vehicle that would not require major surgery (as I recommended in Chapter 1). The car needed some cosmetic touching up and some parts replaced, but many of the original parts were reused with only a minor amount of refurbishment. This helped keeps costs down and, in many cases, also saves time.

We repainted the car, but not fully because we didn’t take out the dash, headliner, or windows. They were all in exceptionally good shape, so we saw no need to replace them.

We removed all of the trim and exterior panels (fenders, doors, hood trunk, etc.) to be repaired and repainted as necessary. But the car was never completely disassembled and stripped to just the bare metal. It didn’t need to be. We did repair a couple of rusted panels, but the amount of bodywork was minimal. We stripped all of the exterior panels down to bare metal for the bodywork, but it wasn’t necessary for the interior, so we left it as is.

The underbody and engine bay needed only minimal prep before they were painted and/or undercoated. We did, however, have to replace an inner fender panel and do some metal work on the trunk lid prior to painting. The repair work done in these two areas used the same basic process as you would use to replace floorpans, quarter panels, and so forth.

Later in the book I show the actual processes for these and most of the work we did. For now I’ll just discuss how we planned out what needed to be done and how we went about organizing it. There are some very good ways to reduce the overall time and expense of a project if you plan accordingly and execute the plan in a logical fashion. There will always be some unexpected issues, but these are all much easier to deal with if you have a plan in place and have already made contact with appropriate people and organizations.

 

When looking your car over and developing a restoration plan, cover all of the things you noticed when you bought the car and then some. If you’ve owned the car for a while already, you may finally be getting to those things you’ve wanted to address for some time. This dent and other areas needing repair are pretty obvious. The bad news is it has this dent, as well as several others, but the good news is the panel is very solid with no rust. The bodywork required to fix it is not very challenging, so there really is no need to make any special plans for it. Depending on personal preference, budget, and the advice and/or skill of who’s doing the bodywork, you need to decide what type of repair you want to do and plan accordingly. The most common approach for a dent such as this is to flatten the metal as much as possible so as to use as little filler as possible. (I get into the specifics of this type of bodywork in Chapter 3.)

Initial Inspection, Evaluation and Creating a “Needs” List

The type of project you have in mind determines the extent of your initial inspection and evaluation, as does the condition of the vehicle. If the vehicle is in good shape or you’re taking the pay-as-you-go approach, you may be less exhaustive. If you’re restoring a show car, you need to do a full-blown inspection. In our case, we had a good car and were doing a moderate project, so we limited our initial inspection to seeing if there were any major surprises. We wanted to make sure we could get parts and arrange for any needed services (more on these later). We also knew we’d be doing more extensive evaluations of individual systems as we got to them.

 

This type of repair involves bringing the metal back as much as possible to its original shape before applying filler and painting. Unlike the prior photo, where the metal could easily be hit from behind to reshape it, this repair may require pulling the metal as well. You can also see we needed to get a new reflector frame because it’s seldom practical to try to repair plastic pieces. It’s also apparent the bumper is bent and needs to be straightened or replaced. These are the kinds of decisions that need to be made early; it could take a lot of time to find a suitable bumper or line up a proper repair. We ultimately decided to just get a new bumper.

 

In a minor refreshening for a daily driver, you primarily identify parts to be replaced. This assumes there are no major problems with rust or failed components. At most, a panel or two may need to be repainted but, in general, there is minimal or no painting done at this level—just a thorough reconditioning of the original painted finishes. Carpets can be replaced, seats can be reupholstered, trim panels and moldings can be replaced, but there is no significant bodywork. Worn or damaged mechanical parts can be replaced—up to a rebuild of the engine, transmission, and/or rear axle. All of this can be done piecemeal, for the most part, as time and budget allow.

 

This photo reveals several areas that need attention. First, the rusted areas on the trunk lid need to be removed and repaired with new metal. The previous owner also installed an alarm that had the key switch in the rear panel. We didn’t want to keep this, so we also need to patch the hole that will be left. Although the tail lamp lenses look reusable, the metal trim rings are too corroded/pitted for us to repair. For a survivor car or a show car, this may be feasible and require a lengthy process. We used new, readily available (yet highquality) reproduction pieces on our car.

 

The front of the car was also in pretty good shape though we needed some new moldings for around the grille opening. These soft aluminum pieces are easily dented. The grille is in good enough shape for a daily driver, but closer inspection revealed considerable pitting and other damage that we wouldn’t want on a nicer car. The bumper is in similar condition. It could be reused, but we decided we wanted something that looked better than this if it were just reconditioned. Rechroming is cost prohibitive and not available, or even possible, in many states because of environmental laws, so a replacement bumper was used. Again, unless you need the original, a replacement makes more sense.

 

Looking in the trunk and other enclosed areas that allow you to see behind the exterior panels can be very informative. Signs of previous repair work and evidence of damage not readily apparent from the outside generally show up here. When you find hidden damage after the restoration has started, you need to adjust your plans to fix these areas. We didn’t find any unexpected bodywork. If you’re doing a strictly original restoration, you want the appropriate trunk mat and other items our car no longer had. For most first-generation Mustangs, such items are easy to find, but they can be problematic for rarer cars.

 

The engine compartment was somewhat weathered. Many of the parts— hood hinges, Water bottle, export brace, engine brackets, and throttle linkage—could be reconditioned, repainted, and reused. New decals and a surprising number of basic underhood parts are still easy to find. After we took the engine out, we’d have the opportunity to refurbish the entire underhood area. You might not do this with a daily driver but you surely would with a show car. We preferred to go with something a little more polished and functional.

 

The shock tower’s condition is one of the critical areas to inspect on any early Mustang, especially the 19641⁄2 to 1966 models. These are prone to cracking, which can cause serious problems for the suspension, steering, and braking systems. Cars that have been raced or otherwise run hard are most susceptible to cracking and stress damage. Cars from colder climates where road salt is used often have these issues. (I show how this can be fixed in Chapter 9.)

 

The rest of the engine compartment was in solid shape. The heater and air conditioner are common rust areas, but we had none at the firewall. We needed a new air-conditioning condenser that mounts in front of the radiator; the original wasn’t usable. This was not easy to replace because few suppliers actually have them in stock. We had to wait several weeks for ours.

 

More subtle things, such as this door window molding, are easier to miss. It has clearly become damaged beyond any repair due to time, sunlight, etc. Many of these items get noticed when you are prepping the car for paint. If you take the time to look for them earlier, you can get the new parts sooner to install when the car is done being painted. Parts like this are fine to put on the car right away because they don’t interfere with other parts that go on later. We didn’t change the glass, so there was no risk of this for us.

 

The wheels and tires would also be usable for a daily driver, but we will be making some changes. We repainted the wheels, including the GT logo on the center caps. We handled it ourselves and thus didn’t need to make any arrangements with others. But we plan to keep the colors factory correct. It doesn’t have to be perfect, but we want it close. Restoration specialists, such as the Eastwood Company, stock paints that will work for us. We also considered new trim rings, but there was a question of cost effectiveness. If only one had been dinged, we probably would have bought a full set to keep them looking consistent. Thus, the question became, “Is the worst of the bunch acceptable or not?” We decided to keep the originals and just polish them all; none of them were really that bad.

 

The next level, or a moderate level of restoration, exceeds minor freshening and all major areas are repaired so the car can be fully prepped and repainted. It’s basically a matter of trying to keep the look consistent. You don’t want to have a nice new paint job and dinged-up trim or moldings, for example. With the overall project done to a higher level, the restoration level for the daily-driver minor refreshening is not acceptable. More parts are replaced and refurbished to make them look better. The cost is higher and the project more timeconsuming. There still is no requirement the work be done in a continuous fashion but the body prep and paint work, the biggest part of this type of restoration, inevitably is done this way. Rebuilding the engine, refurbishing the interior, and other areas can be done whenever. But it’s best to get some work out of the way first to avoid damage to the new paint.

 

The interior, in general, was in pretty decent shape, but a few things obviously needed work. We knew we would need new armrests, for example, because the original ones were too far gone. Likewise, new seat covers and new carpets, but we actually could have kept the door panels if we wanted to; they were that good. Items such as the lower door molding would just need some TLC; a good thing because these can be very pricey. Other than new sill plates and a couple of lenses for the gauges, there was not much to worry about. If you needed to recondition the original dash pad, for example, you would definitely have to allow enough time for it. A replacement is much cheaper and more easily obtained, but it can also be much harder to source a perfect match for the true factory look.

 

The rear seats were in fantastic shape. We would not have needed to do anything to them if we weren’t replacing the seat covers up front. Again, we were facing the issue of the new and old looking different, so we put new seat covers on the rear as well. Another reason was the high quality and very authentic appearance of the covers from Distinctive Industries. If the reproduction covers weren’t such a good match to the originals, we might have kept the rear seat original. While the texture and fit could be made to match, the colors wouldn’t match due to the effects of many years of aging. Some might suggest dyeing both the new front and original rear seats to match, but we didn’t feel it was worth the risk, especially since the reproductions looked so good. The new covers should last longer also.

 

While I cover the evaluation of the undercar areas and systems in individual chapters, it is still necessary to get a preliminary idea of the extent of the work. When we got our car up in the air, we discovered the steering system and the exhaust would need some repair. The oil leak would automatically be taken care of when we rebuilt the engine. The headers that came with the car would not be reused because they were in poor condition and we wanted a stock appearance. We used freer-flowing “K” manifolds, which were a challenge in terms of availability and compatibility of parts. Luckily, we planned and researched early, so we had the parts on hand when we needed to ensure everything fit. The steering parts were difficult to find because they were commonly not in stock. We could have tried to rebuild the originals; that may be the answer for some. We decided on new parts mainly to reduce cost and maximize durability, but it ended up costing us some time when the parts proved to be difficult to obtain.

 

The rear section of the car looks as good as the rest. The gas tank was in exceptional condition on the outside, but we still gave it a good internal inspection. This tank was useable, but replacements are easy to find. We disregarded exhaust; we knew it would be replaced, as would the majority of the brakes and suspension (more on those in Chapter 8 and Chapter 9, respectively). The rear axle didn’t show any signs of undue stress, and was therefore a good candidate for rebuilding. From a parts perspective we knew we’d need all of the little parts like hangers, clamps, and so forth, but these weren’t a problem in our case. For those building a rarer vehicle, even these common parts can be difficult to locate if the highest levels of authenticity are necessary for the project.

 

The headliner in the car was perfect, so we kept it. This saved time and expense, plus it also allowed us to feel better about our decision to stick with the original glass. This is a classic example of the interdependence of certain parts. Keeping both the headliner and the glass eliminated the need to buy replacements that would not likely match the look of the originals as much as some other parts do (the factory markings on the glass will really be special, as will the texture of the headliner). The only potential down side is that we didn’t get to see the underside of the roof to check for any problems, but we didn’t worry about it because the rest of the car’s consistently good condition.

 

This is the key difference between the minor refreshening and the moderate level of restoration: scheduling and coordination of the work. This needs to be done to save time and money and to avoid having to redo some things. You also need to consider the availability of  parts and/or shop services. Because some work is more elaborate, you need to schedule work with shops and source parts to keep the project moving. Last, the moderate-level weekend-cruiser restoration is meant for a car that will be driven and shown off, so you also need to allow some time to work out any bugs that may occur in fit, drivability, whatever. The daily-driver car won’t be shown off as much and the level of change at any given time is generally less, thus minimizing potential problems. Similarly, the show car generally changes very little from the stock configuration, but isn’t intended for much driving—factors which inherently minimize the potential for problems.

 

The floors on this car were as solid as you’d ever see. This was a real relief because we didn’t need to do any extensive surgery to repair rust. All of the body plugs were in place and original fasteners and other parts were there. This confirmation is part of closely documenting how things went together and for keeping the parts together as they came off the car. I briefly discuss that later in this chapter. We already knew we’d need a new exhaust system, but it was interesting to see what the previous owner had done in hope of making a bit more power and, perhaps, also having a more aggressive exhaust note.

 

The show-car build goes well beyond the moderate level. Consequently, the vehicle has to be completely disassembled, stripped, and prepped prior to a very high level of restoration. All parts are evaluated against the highest standards of authenticity, finish, and function. What’s good for the other build levels often isn’t good enough for a show car because it’s not perfect or authentic enough. Many parts that are taken off of a show car can still be used for other restoration projects with less restrictive criteria. The show car generally has the original parts refurbished to the highest standard or uses the best available reproduction parts (more on that in a bit). All seals, weather stripping, seat covers, door/trim panels, and other soft/ wearable parts are generally replaced unless you are going for maximum authenticity and/or are building a survivor car and keeping the original patina (surface aging). For a show car, every part is examined for originality and is held to a higher standard than the other restoration levels. Functionality is secondary to aesthetics and authenticity. Time and cost are also lesser concerns.

Planning and Organization

After you’ve completed a thorough inspection, you should have a feel for what you want and need to do to meet the goal for your project type. If you’re doing a daily driver/pay-as-you-go kind of restoration, there really isn’t much planning involved. You take each task on a case-by-case basis and get to them as time and budget allow. These are usually weekend projects, which do not involve significant disassembly of the vehicle. Generally, you need few special tools or trips to a shop to leave it there for specific services. You can either buy any needed specialty tools for specific work or you can usually just rent them from retailers like Autozone. You still need to purchase parts in advance and arrange to have a place to do the work. You should always allow for the unexpected and perform the work indoors because you need to keep your parts, tools, and vehicle clean and protected. An enclosed garage that can be heated or cooled is best to protect the vehicle and make working on it more comfortable. It also is more secure because you can lock it and leave it. Just about any job can benefit from being performed in an enclosed garage or under a canopy, etc. If you have a vehicle you consider worth restoring you should plan to work on it inside.

I cover sourcing parts later in this chapter, but one issue to address up front is scheduling any services to be performed. Some jobs such as wheel alignment usually mean you just bring the car to the shop and wait your turn. If you can schedule an appointment, you are better off. One caveat: Some shops are very busy  and difficult to get your car into, especially those doing the best work. This is particularly true for high-end restorations. You don’t just show up at one of those shops and expect to be able to leave your car and wait for a call and a bill.

A show-car restoration at a highend shop is a commitment not only in terms of finances and time but also on the part of both the shop and the owner to get it done right. Almost any decision about time and money spent can affect project outcome and quality. The good news is the shop will probably help considerably with the overall planning and organization in a high-end show-car project—they get paid for it and have a reputation to preserve. With such a restoration, you can generally have as much or as little involvement as you desire with the project.

Most Mustang projects are pretty straightforward because there’s an established recipe or criteria, so there are fewer compromises to make. Because the shop effectively becomes your prime subcontractor, they handle many of the tasks involved. They can deal with specialty shops for jobs, such as chrome plating, engine building, etc., if they don’t have these in-house capabilities. They can help you find parts and information specific to the vehicle. If you’ve got the time and the money, you can’t beat just dropping the car off at a reputable, high-end restoration shop and letting them get the job done right for you.

But that’s not why you’re reading this book. If you want to create a high-end show car, use this book to help keep the high-end shop on target. If you’re doing a daily driver, use this book to supplement the factory service manual, so that your vehicle performs beyond factory level.

Those benefiting most are those building the weekend cruiser, where you are the prime contractor and source out what you can’t or don’t want to do. You’ll also benefit from the following tips on how to structure the project and choose providers of parts and services.

Usually, bodywork and paint takes the longest time in any restoration project. This should be the thing you try to get started on ASAP. Whether you’re doing a full rotisserie job or just stripping down the exterior while leaving some parts in place, the sooner you can get the body to the paint shop, the better.

The best way to approach this is to first remove all the major exterior panels like the hood, trunk, and fenders, so they will be out of harm’s way while you remove the larger items. Neither the doors nor the glass have to come off at this time, but you need to remove the trim items and moldings.

In a show-car project, you likely will take the car down to the bare shell in one step because it is almost certainly going onto a rotisserie for further work. In our weekend-cruiser-style project we did not take out the glass because it was in excellent shape with no leaks. Why risk breaking the glass if there is no problem? (We were especially concerned about the rear glass because it had the factory center stripe and would not be easy, or cheap, to replace if something went wrong.) We decided to leave the doors on for the time being so the interior wouldn’t get dirty while the car was hauled to the body shop on a flatbed truck. We left the doors and windows closed to prevent wind and dirt from damaging the headliner we decided to keep.

Every project comprises these same basic elements and follows a similar plan. The steps may differ. For example, some are added or deleted to achieve a certain level of performance, function, finish/ appearance, authenticity, and final overall quality. All projects start with a general evaluation of the vehicle to define what needs to be done to reach the goal. Some parts and services are identified after this initial inspection; others become obvious later, throughout the project.

To the extent you can get the Ford Mustang parts you need, it seldom hurts to get them ASAP; you never know when they may be hard to find, on backorder, etc. It’s the same thing with services from outside shops. Start talking to the body shop, engine shop, transmission shop, etc., as soon as you decide to use them. This may help to schedule the project and find parts (they may have some and/or have sources you didn’t know about), and they can also serve as a reality check for what you want to do. You can’t overvalue the resource of a good shops, so talk to friends, club members, whomever, to find them. Shops featured in magazine articles are worth considering as well because they have proven they can meet a relatively high standard of work under a deadline.

 

It’s important to note how things came apart and where unique parts came from. The venting system is a perfect example because it’s somewhat of a special Mustang feature. Note that there are five cup-like spacers that go between the retaining nut and the body panel. These pieces are unique to the car both in appearance and function. Basically, they help compensate for production variations and the natural curvature of the body. You won’t see parts like these used in many other places. The key is to record their location (with a photo, if possible) and then keep such items together in a properly labeled bag.

 

When planning and organizing your restoration project, keep the proper sequence of events in mind and schedule outside work earlier rather than later. For our project, we made sure we sent the components that needed rebuilding to their respective shops ASAP. We then focused on taking off whatever else we needed to remove, so we could get the body to the paint shop. While the body was being taken care of, we reconditioned the parts that needed some attention and acquired new parts for the things we decided to change. Leaving the glass, headliner, and dash in the car saved some time and cost, but it also meant we had to be extra careful to not damage these items while we painted and worked in the interior.

We stuck to our plan and had a rebuilt engine, rebuilt transmission, rebuilt rear axle, new suspension, new brakes, and reconditioned interior parts ready to go when we got the car back from the paint shop. Other than a few parts that were backordered, we were all set.

 

Out of the car, the engine and transmission can be separated to go to their respective shops for rebuilds. Record the condition of small items, such as fasteners and brackets, before removing and storing them. Generally, you want to remove as much as possible before sending larger parts away so they’re cleaned and safely in your possession. The shops also prefer this. Just be sure you don’t remove anything needed by the shop for attachment, testing, or any other reason. The torque converter, for example, does not need to go to the transmission shop unless you want them to work on it too. There isn’t much you can do to a converter and you’re usually better off sending the transmission without it, in most cases.

Initial/Basic Disassembly

Rebuilding the engine, transmission, and rear axle should take less time than doing the bodywork and paint, so you should get to work on these items after the hood, radiator, and other adjacent parts have been removed to prevent damage. This is where scheduling issues become more critical. The time it takes to complete various services vary, so the goal is to complete tasks in the proper  sequence and minimize holdups, the potential for damage, or having to redo things. It’s logical to start those tasks and have the finished parts ready for reinstallation after the body is done. You can also take care of the interior panels, seats, brakes, suspension, etc.

 

Larger items, such as the radiator, are fairly easy to identify and keep track of, so the main goal is to prevent damage while they are being stored. The fins on the radiator are a good example of something that must be protected. Like most parts, a radiator can benefit from a good cleaning and repainting. However, special consideration must be given to the type of paint used; common enamel paint can reduce the heat-transfer efficiency of the radiator. Special radiator paint is available, from companies such as Eastwood, which not only gives the radiator a nice appearance but also helps ensure maximum heat-transfer capability.

 

After removing any parts that might get in the way or be damaged in the process, the engine and transmission can be removed as a unit. It’s not mandatory that both come out together, but the engine and tranny provide better balance as an entire assembly, so the removal process is easier. You can tilt the engine and tranny to different angles as they are lifted. Use the largest fasteners possible to hold the chain’s attachment tabs on the engine, and make sure you have enough thread engagement for all studs or bolts. Try to attach to the strongest points and materials (iron versus aluminum, for example) whenever possible. Lift slowly.

 

It requires great care and often special tools to remove small parts like this emblem. The wide blade of this tool spreads the prying force so you reduce the chance of breaking it. Still, take care to not damage the part or the surface under it. Even though we’ll repaint the vehicle, there is no reason to create extra finish repair work. Small parts like these are usually easy to source, so it’s not too bad if you break one; but it’s nice to reuse the original parts if possible. This one only needs a little cleaning and paint, if the pitting comes off after being rubbed with steel wool. If not, we use a new set.

 

 

We found it useful to leave the suspension and brakes on the car while it was being painted, so it would make it easier to move the car around. We knew we’d replace most of the parts anyway, so we didn’t need to take the original parts off the car to recondition them. If you need to do so in your case, it’s best to do that after the car gets to the body shop, while the bodywork is being done.

The refurbished and/or new parts can be put back on the car before it goes to the paint both, if necessary, but this is not generally required. The paint shop should have a dolly setup to put under the car to move it around. But if you need to roll it around on the suspension, be sure to mask off the parts you’ll be using so they don’t get covered with overspray in the paint booth. We used a dummy rear axle and the stock front setup because we would be putting in all new components for the suspension and brakes. The axle was rebuilt while the car was being painted, and we simply reinstalled the newly rebuilt axle after the car left the body shop.

If you are doing a show-car level of restoration for which everything comes off the car, you should refurbish the original parts while the body and paintwork is being done. That way everything is ready when the car goes back together. If you leave some parts on the car during paint (as we did), have them masked off and be sure you have decided how to handle blend lines and so forth. If you’re repainting the car the same original color, this is less of an issue than if you’re changing colors. In the latter case, you need to decide where to make the color switch in places like door jambs and the trunk area. If you’re going to be covering areas with trim or custom panels, this is also where you prevent problems.

 

Special tools are mandatory in some cases, as in removing this delicate molding. Special tools can make easy work of removing sealant, clips, and retaining pins. Trying to do this with a screwdriver or other generic tool would almost surely damage the molding and maybe even other parts. Even with the right tool(s), taking these moldings off requires an amount of finesse that only comes with experience. The moldings on our car were in absolutely pristine condition, so we let the experts handle this job. In our case, no replacement would look as good as the original parts.

 

While there are plenty of special tools that can be bought or borrowed, there are others that can be easily made. Here, a simple can opener and some masking tape are combined to make a tool that greatly simplifies removing moldings and other trim items with minimal damage. Finesse is required here, but the point is that you don’t always have to buy special tools.

 

These are issues to consider up front rather than after the painting starts. Since we did a re-spray of the original color and only left the dash, glass, and headliner in, we were spared any really tough decisions. The door moldings, sill plates, and similarity of the old and new paint colors made things much easier. Perhaps our biggest problem was the underhood area where we used a different coating for the engine bay than for the lower portion of the car. (In Chapter 4, I discuss how we handled the merge line.)

 

Tools and Equipment

Regardless of what level of restoration you undertake, you will surely need a pretty good assortment of tools. Of course, you need the usual wrenches, ratchets, screwdrivers, etc. How many other tools you need depends on how much of the work you intend to do yourself. It’s safe to say you will at least need a decent floor jack and some good jack stands. Don’t try to save pennies on these; the stamped-steel types generally aren’t the wisest or safest choice. Spend a little more and get something you know is strong enough to last. You also need a few good drain pans for things like oil, coolant, brake fluid, etc., as well as containers to dispose of what you accumulate. Don’t assume any old plastic container will work; some may not be strong enough and you’ll soon have one heck of a mess. Metal or compatible plastics are the only way to go.

When it comes to removing trim, moldings, and so forth, you usually need special tools to do the job with the least chance of damaging the components. These special tools can generally be purchased at auto parts stores or places such as Sears and Walmart, in many cases. Tool retailers, such as Harbor Freight, also carry some of the more popular items. Some can be made out of other tools or from scratch, if you have the expertise and a model to follow. In general, these special tools are not terribly expensive and are well worth having if you plan to do more restoration work.

If you only need something for a short time, you can also borrow many special tools from auto parts stores and their tool loaner programs. You generally just leave a deposit, which you get back when you return the tool. The selection isn’t complete, of course, and you won’t find the less-expensive ones available, but you can surely find things like a brake service set at most stores that have such a program.

A good torque wrench is one tool you should definitely invest in. At a minimum, purchase a 3/8-inch drive with a range up to about 250 ft-lbs or so. A click style is more convenient, but a dial type can often be more accurate. You need something that’s going to stay accurate because an inaccurate reading can be a safety problem and/or cause very expensive damage if it’s in the power train, suspension, or brake areas. Buy a better model of a good brand, as your budget allows. One usage note: Always set it back to zero before you store it and check the calibration as needed to maintain acceptable accuracy.

In addition to common hand tools, it’s useful to have access to grinding wheels, hydraulic presses, impact wrenches, transmission jacks, and engines hoists, etc., depending on how much you plan to do yourself. Some of these are worth always having around and some are not worth the expense, if you only plan on using them for one or two projects. You also need space to store everything, which may or may not be an issue. You may be able to disassemble an engine hoist, so it will technically fit in a closet, but your significant other may not be too thrilled with the idea.

Beyond needing a compressor and air lines for pneumatic tools, you may also need 220v and/or high-current circuits for some equipment. If you don’t have it, then don’t consider such equipment unless you plan to do more of such work in the future. The lure of a temperature controlled, well-equipped garage is irresistible for most people who plan to work on their car(s) very often, so you may find yourself using your restoration project to justify some upgrades around the garage as well.

The simple rule is to first buy what you’ll use the most often and then upgrade as your needs and your skill level changes. You may find you need to make a purchase to finish something you’ve started, either because what you were using broke or couldn’t handle the job. That’s why it usually pays to spend a little more to get some extra capability even if you may not have an immediate need for it. And it’s always good to have extras of some tools for when your buddies are available to help you, or in case something breaks during use.

If you want to do as much of the work as possible and have the expertise, you also need welding equipment, special bodywork tools, and so forth. The necessary welding equipment can range from simple arc welders and flux-core MIG all the way to professional-type TIG. Similarly, bodywork tools can range from handheld dollies to plasma cutters. These can be fairly expensive and require considerable knowledge to use properly. If you have that knowledge, you probably already have the right equipment. If not, but can buy the equipment, it’s still not usually a good idea to learn as you go on a restoration project. If you do decide you want to take such an approach, it’s best to practice your welding, bodywork, and other skills on other vehicles before your restoration project. The potential for causing very expensive damage to either the car or yourself can be significant.

 

A very simple, yet effective means of reconditioning chrome-plated parts is to gently rub them with 0000-grade steel wool and a small amount of chrome polish. This usually removes virtually all of the minor pitting and corrosion that can form on chrome-plated parts. More serious damage requires either stripping and rechroming or buying a new part. With ever-tightening environmental laws, it’s difficult to find a shop that does chrome plating. Then, after you find one, you probably want to be sitting down when you get the quote for the work. Usually, this is only feasible for a highdollar show car that needs to retain as many original parts as possible.

 

If you have any doubts about what you’re doing, you should probably farm the work out to an experienced and trusted shop that has the necessary equipment and expertise. This is almost always the case when it comes to rebuilding engines, transmissions, and the like. Throughout the book, I show some of the special tools and techniques such shops can provide. For now, it’s only necessary to identify any special tools you need using the factory service manual and/or advice from others who’ve done similar work before. Also identify the various sources from which you can purchase or borrow tools should you have an unexpected need for one.

Trim Removal and Repair

Always remove trim, moldings, and similar parts before more serious disassembly begins. This is mainly to protect these pieces from potential damage. Special tools really are mandatory in most cases to avoid damage to the parts while removing them. They are a relatively small investment, well worth it for any level of project.

Most of the trim, moldings, emblems, logos, and lettering on first generation Mustangs are held on with various forms of clips, nuts, and other fasteners. In most cases, they were not intended to be removed at all, so they weren’t attached with more normal nuts and bolts. They also tend to be relatively undisturbed and unprotected other than by, perhaps, a coating of wax. If the car has not been garaged or otherwise protected from the elements, there is probably some corrosion. The potential for other damage (impacts, scratches, etc.) is always present, too. It is a rare case when all of the original moldings and so forth can be reused. We were, thankfully, very lucky in this regard with our car.

Those doing a show-car restoration or building a survivor car usually keep the original parts, if at all possible. This is much more likely for a survivor car. While reproduction parts may be available for many or most of these items, they often do not match the originals perfectly. This can be due to a number of factors. The tooling used to create the reproductions may not precisely match the features of the factory tooling. Even when so-called original factory tooling is used to make the parts, there can still be a problem if the tooling is too worn. Ford replaced tooling on a regular basis during production. It is usually too expensive for an aftermarket company. Thus, there can still be differences if the tooling is worn beyond Ford’s specifications.

Differences in materials can also cause matching problems. Differences in alloys, plating processes, and other manufacturing variations from original factory to aftermarket parts can make the parts look, fit, and/or perform differently. Chrome-plated steel or aluminum may be substituted for stainless steel, for example. Specifications and processes for chrome plating may differ.

The point is that there truly is no substitute for most original parts. Higher quality reproductions will do the best job of replicating the factory parts and, in some cases, match them to the point where only an expert can tell the difference. For a show car where authenticity matters, this is what you want to go with. For a weekend cruiser or a daily driver, you may not be able to justify the extra expense of this level.

Instead, you may just want to recondition what you have. If you find extensive impact damage or corrosion, there’s usually no point in trying to save the original parts. However, if there is just some moderate scratching or pitting and/or some relatively small dents, etc., these can probably be fixed. A lot depends on the material—stainless steel is very forgiving, aluminum less so, chrome-plated steel or pot metal the least so.

In general, deal with any damage or dents first. Then, with the part back in proper form, the surface finish can be addressed. Stainless steel and aluminum can usually be rubbed with 0000-grade steel wool to remove most imperfections, and can then be polished to achieve the desired finish. This does not apply, however, if the finish is relatively dull. There are ways to restore such a finish, but these are best left to professionals. Mildly pitted chrome finishes can also be rubbed with 0000-grade steel wool and usually require no further attention. Significantly pitted chrome-plated parts often require stripping and rechroming. This is very expensive and cannot be done everywhere due to local laws. Also, the base material may not survive the process, depending on its condition.

 

When looking for replacement parts, many factors come into play. Proper fit and function are common goals regardless of the type of restoration. However, aesthetics plays a key role in weekendcruiser and show-car builds. Both require a high-quality appearance, but the show car must also strictly adhere to the original factory look. The correct material choice, the proper colors and textures, etc., make a huge difference in preserving the original look of the vehicle. To get such quality and accuracy, you can expect to pay significantly more than for a lowerquality part. This original part can be reused after some minor cleaning—that’s the best way to go if you can.

 

The good news is that reproduction chrome parts generally look better than other material finishes. Chrome also makes it easier to paint recesses and other colored features. You can apply paint, let it set up, and then carefully remove it from only the chrome. There’s often no need for any masking.

 

Another example of how some replacement parts are better than others is in the construction of the part. This factory grille is assembled with rivets holding the parts together. Many reproductions, even highquality parts, often use a nut-and-bolt arrangement instead of rivets. This is much less costly to manufacture and, for most people, is fine for function and appearance because the fasteners are not easily visible. On a show car, such a difference can prove to be quite significant.

 

Smaller items, such as emblems, letters, logos, etc., are usually made from either plastic or pot metal and are easier to replace than to recondition/repair. Modern molding technologies can actually yield very accurate reproductions, so lack of availability and/or cost would be the main reasons for trying to reuse the original parts. This furthers the point made earlier about consistency of appearance. If you replace one letter in a string, you’ll probably end up replacing all of them because the new and old items will not look the same.

 

Some of the more obscure and very special parts like vapor barriers, backing mats, etc., which are unique for each individual vehicle, are often harder to source than other parts. These parts are usually replaced because the originals have deteriorated or were damaged when removed. There is virtually nothing that can be done to preserve or recondition such parts; replacement is the most common option. In very rare cases, the originals may be used as templates to create a new set but, again, this is only feasible in extreme situations, as with a show car.

 

Similarly, you don’t want nice new trim and old/worn lettering or logos, etc. One of the best reasons for replacing these items is they tend to become loose over time, and there really is no good way of securing them to the car. The material wears, corrodes, or breaks off and the fasteners don’t have enough material to hold onto anymore. The parts become loose, rattle, and can allow water to accumulate where you don’t want it to. Unless you’re doing a survivor vehicle or can’t get new replacement parts, you are generally better off replacing most of the small bits that attach to body panels than you are trying to make them look or fit better. Reconditioning those you must reuse requires extra care in ensuring the compatibility of any coatings, paints, etc., as well as choosing a repair method that prevents damage. If it’s a complex and/or delicate component, let a professional do the job. Otherwise, consult those who have successfully done such work for the best techniques.

Finding Replacement Parts

Remember: When it comes to parts, you get what you pay for. Perhaps the first questions to ask when shopping for a part is, “What do I really need,” and/or “What can I afford?”

If you’re building a daily driver and/or don’t have much of a budget, perhaps functionality is your primary concern. You don’t mind if the part looks and feels a little different, so long as it does the job. You can probably save some money and time looking for your parts in this case, but you shouldn’t expect the same overall quality or authentic look of a better-quality part. You need to ensure the part at least meets certain standards for performance, durability, and feasibility. Avoid poorly made (usually imported) parts that have a low price but aren’t made well enough to fit properly, work well enough, or last very long. Any retailer may sell such products, so make sure there is good return policy wherever you buy. Of course, it helps to deal with more established sources no matter what type of car you’re building. When you’re trying to keep costs low, however, you’re more likely to buy something online or from a private party, thus potentially increasing the chances of getting an inferior part.

If you buy online you should only buy from shops and/or individuals with a good return policy and, to the extent they are available, good customer reviews and feedback scores. It helps to know people who have bought from a particular seller and were satisfied with the parts. You can also go onto forums and see what others have to say about a given seller; you will likely also find more sources for the parts you need. The classifieds section of many forums is a great place to find parts, as are the websites and publications of local car clubs. Craigslist.org and eBay.com are wellknown sources for buying used items on the Internet, but Mustang owners also need to look at sites such as corral.net, stangnet.com, allfordmustangs.com, and vintage-mustang.com. (A larger list is provided in the Source Guide on page 192.) These types of online and/or local sources are generally the best places to start your search if you’re looking for something common and want to keep costs low.

Depending on the item you’re looking for, you may even be able to simply go to your local auto parts store. Many standard replacement parts are still available even though these cars are 40 or so years old. Also, don’t forget salvage yards either. While their quality varies, they offer some good potential, especially if they cater to specific vehicles such as Mustangs.

If you’re building a weekend cruiser or show car and are less concerned with cost than with quality, availability, and/or authenticity, you also want look at businesses specializing in restoration parts in general and Mustangs in particular. The largest and perhaps most widely known are companies such as Mustangs Plus, National Parts Depot (NPD), and Year One. They have Mustang-specific catalogs, sometimes even organized by generation, plus they tend to stock very large assortments of replacement parts and some aftermarket parts.

You can also go onto the Internet and find Ford- or Mustang-specific salvage yards, such as Mustang Village in San Bernadino, California. In some cases, you can also go to the websites of parts suppliers, such as Scott Drake Enterprises, Tony D. Branda Performance, Inc., or Distinctive Industries (Specialty Division), either to buy parts directly or to get the name of an authorized distributor. They can tell you what’s right for your car or, if authenticity is not a priority, what other options may be better.

Because we’re not restoring a show car or survivor car, authentic parts are not a requirement. For our weekend cruiser, we had a readily available supply of original and reproduction parts; therefore it was unusual that an unavailable part held up our project.

There are plenty of sources, but things like price, quality level, and customer service vary considerably among them. It’s a definite benefit to build relationships with qualified craftsman and concentrate most of your business on a smaller number of shops. They tend to take extra time to help you find what you need, often even if they don’t have it. If you always go to the source with the lowest price, your total cost will probably end up higher. Sure, you can go online to find great prices, but you won’t always get a quality part and you won’t be getting the added value of an experienced group of people who can provide you with invaluable information and assistance throughout the course of your build. Besides, one of the best parts of being involved in a restoration project is the people you meet and the relationships you make before and after it’s done.

Cataloging and Organizing Your Parts

As you are taking the vehicle apart and/or acquiring new parts to be installed, it is extremely helpful if you keep track of everything as you go. Sure, you can tell a left front fender from a right front fender, but what about the hundreds of little parts attached to the bigger pieces? It’s very difficult to remember how fasteners go back together. Even if a screw or bolt looks the same when it’s installed, there may be a difference in length that is more important than you might think. Some bolts go through water passages, may need seals, have a special thread, etc. Some screws need to be different lengths on the same part for specific reasons. The point is, there’s no way most people can remember all of this unless they do this type of work on a regular basis.

Rather than try to remember all the specifics, there are better ways to make sure the right parts go back in the right places. One simple way is to take a lot of digital photos during disassembly. With inexpensive digital cameras and camera phones readily available, there is no limit to how may photos you can take, other than time and the amount of memory you feel like paying for. Showing how a part looks before it comes apart and then showing related fasteners is one way to make sure you don’t lose track of things.

After you save the photos, you need to store the parts until you need them again. Large parts are not so much of a problem, but you should try to keep related parts together in a secure area.

Protect the parts after they’ve been removed, so they don’t get damaged from being walked into, spilled on, hit with overspray, becoming too hot or too cold, getting wet, whatever. Parts can be wrapped, bagged, and/or labeled. Smaller parts, like fasteners, emblems, etc., are best kept in labeled Ziploc-type bags. Put the bags in a small box near the parts the fasteners they go with. Organize everything into logical groups that you’ll remember, such as steering, suspension, and brakes. You can subdivide into front, rear, left, right, driver side, passenger side, etc., as you see fit.

The bottom line is that more information is better than less, so long as it makes sense to you. Having a separate shelf, drawer, or section of floor for the different vehicle sections is best, as long as you can ensure the parts are safe and undisturbed.

A final note: Sometimes it’s best to not disassemble things too far or, if you have to, to partially reassemble them before you store them for further reassembly. Obviously, components like the engine, transmission, and differential are mostly assembled before they go back into the car. This is most true with parts that require unique assembly process and/or when you will be reusing the cleaned-up original parts. An example is the seat belt fastening bolts. There is a certain trick to putting this seemingly simple assembly back together before it can be put into the car. This extra care in the beginning can save time and frustration later.

 

Keeping your parts organized saves time and ensures a higher-quality build. Fasteners particularly need to be cataloged and organized in a very logical fashion. One of the best ways is to use Ziploc-type plastic bags—write on them directly if they have a label or use masking tape as shown. These bags keep the parts clean, dry, and visible. Keep the bags of fasteners for a given group of components in a nearby box.

 

Whatever degree of disassembly you undertake with however many parts (new or reused), you must be able to find them come reassembly time. Everything is smoother if you organize what you have into a reasonable number of logical groups and keep a log of what is where. A simple inventory with some additional details goes a long way to ensure you have what you need when you need it.

 

Oftentimes, it’s best to keep certain parts, including fasteners, partially assembled to help remember how things go together. Here, a seat belt attachment bolt and spacer are kept with the belt for reassembly. Proper assembly order means proper function of the parts. Getting the belt through the rubber sleeve requires a little talent to avoid damage. And to tighten the bolts, you must first pull a length of the belt through the sleeve to provide clearance for the wrench. The metal tab of the belt pivots on the shoulder of the bolt, and there is just enough clearance for the tab and sleeve to turn freely.

 

If you really want to get fancy, restoration project management software is available. These programs help you keep track of all your parts and gauge the overall progress of the whole restoration against specific timelines and projections. Such software can even provide some generic milestones that are common to most restorations, in a flow path structure. You still have to plug in the estimated times (or use generic estimates), but the structure can be beneficial, especially for a novice. Even the most experienced restoration shops use such project management software. Whether you use software or you just draw up a plan and try to stick to it as best you can, the key is to anticipate what you need to do, do as much as you can as soon as you can without causing complications later, and leave enough flexibility to be able to make adjustments for the unexpected issues that arise.

Written by Frank Bohanan and Republished with Permission of CarTech Inc