How to Rebuild Big-Block Ford – Prepare for Removal

Before getting started I’d like to quote a simple statement that, in my experience, will make this and any other automotive job an easier, more pleasant, and rewarding undertaking for you: “Plan your work and work your plan.”

When deciding your degree of involvement in your engine rebuild, consider two things: first, the time and expense of having someone else perform all the work and, second, the satisfaction of being directly responsible for a job well done. A word of caution here: While I’m as entertained as the next red-blooded American male by Hollywood’s rendition of engine rebuilding and automotive restoration, there is little resemblance between what you see on the flat screen and what awaits you out in the garage. In the real world, the task of removing, rebuilding, and replacing the engine in your car or truck cannot be accomplished in an hour and will result in you getting a tad dirtier and being a bit more challenged than the guys on your favorite automotive show.

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This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, HOW TO REBUILD BIG-BLOCK FORD ENGINES. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:

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It’s not a pretty sight, but that shaker scoop atop the air cleaner on this engine indicates that something special might be below. Not only does the shaker rest on a 429 Cobra Jet engine, but the engine sits between the fenders of one of just a handful of specially built 1970 Torino NASCAR pace cars. This engine rebuild will be part of a total restoration of this rare car belonging to Mike Parrotta of Columbus, New Jersey.

 

Engines are rebuilt for various reasons, ranging from noticeable loss of power and efficiency due to high mileage (just plain worn out), to the quest for more power (you want to go faster). In a worst-case scenario, a rebuild may be necessary due to failure of internal engine components (you don’t have much choice). Whatever the reason, you have decided to proceed with removing and rebuilding your engine. But before the first wrench is turned or the first knuckle skinned, there are questions to be answered and logistics to be arranged.

First, to what level do you want to take this rebuild? Keep in mind that there are various types or levels of rebuild from just freshening it up with new piston rings and bearings throughout to the modifications required for all-out competition.

The purpose of this book is to cover all aspects of an engine rebuild, focusing on stock but also featuring high-performance modifications. The term “stock rebuild” refers to restoring the engine to factory specifications using new original or correct replacement components in order to restore power and efficiency.

The next level on the rebuild continuum consists of internal modifications that allow the engine to retain a factory appearance while providing improvements in performance and reliability.

Last but not least is the dedicated performance buildup that not only includes aftermarket internal parts and modifications, but also external changes from oil pan to air cleaner.

The logistics and the support required to successfully complete the project are also important considerations in any engine rebuild project. So let’s get started planning our work in order to work our plan.

 

Research

Know your subject, read, and ask questions. By reading this book in advance of beginning your rebuild, you will gain insight into the task at hand, know what steps to follow, the tools and services that will be required, and recognize the differences between the Lima series engines and others.

 

Facilities

While accomplishing a successful rebuild relying on a handy tree limb for a hoist and the dirt floor of an old chicken coop for an assembly room is probably stretching it, many fine running engines, including some used in all-out competition, have been assembled in the home shop. Experience has taught me that a clean, well-lit workplace is of the utmost importance when assembling an engine. And the degree to which you choose to outfit your home shop will directly affect the ease with which the task at hand will be accomplished. But keep in mind that a garage full of woodworking tools won’t take you too far in automotive applications.

 

Tools Required

The phrase “may be installed with common hand tools,” is routinely encountered in the directions that accompany parts (and yes, it’s probably a good idea to read them before proceeding). Suffice it to say that a home shop that is well stocked with high-quality hand tools is a great place to start when rebuilding an engine. When I say quality tools, I’m not advocating you flag down the nearest Snap-On truck and hand over your credit card, but by the same token, the tools in the 99- cent bin at your local homeimprovement emporium are definitely not a good choice. Over the years I have had great luck with Craftsman tools and in terms of quality for the price and availability they can’t be beat.

 

If your garage has the luxury of an air compressor, congratulations, as this will allow the use of air tools. Fear not, you can still accomplish most automotive tasks without air tools, it will just require a little more muscle power.

 

Important!

Think safety! Having a fire extinguisher handy when working with flammable materials is always a good idea. And don’t wait until you are faced with a need for the extinguisher to read the operating instructions. The extinguishers state of charge should also be noted periodically.

 

Sockets, both standard and deepwell, along with various hex ends are a must when rebuilding your engine.

 

Several types and sizes of hammers may be required to coax parts that have been in place and exposed to the elements for many years.

 

A 1/2-inch-drive breaker bar is a must for the heavy work and a good old-fashioned speed wrench will help remove multiple fasteners like oil pan bolts a lot quicker if you don’t have the luxury of air tools.

 

A set of line wrenches will save valuable fuel and air-conditioning lines from damage during removal.

 

A good assortment of pliers and side cutters will prove themselves useful with this and most auto projects undertaken in the home shop.

 

A complete set of quality screw drivers (these are Craftsman Professional series) in flat and Phillips heads will prove superior to bargain brands and give years of service.

 

This type of puller is necessary to remove the vibration damper from your engine. Do not attempt to force the damper off by other means, as serious damage may occur.

 

Parts cleaners and rust penetrating sprays are perhaps the most important products to purchase before undertaking an engine rebuild. Bolts and nuts to be removed during your project should be liberally soaked well in advance of wrenching.

 

Specialized tools such as this hex set are not always necessary but can prove handy on many automotive projects.

 

A 3/8-inch-drive ratchet and set of extensions in varying lengths will handle many tasks on your rebuild.

 

You will find many uses for a good set of drifts, punches, and chisels on your rebuild project.

 

I have used this bottle jack as an inexpensive supplement to my floor jack for many years. While not particularly recommended for the real heavy work, a bottle jack will fit into areas that a floor jack can’t reach.

 

Bolt out nut and bolt extractors are designed to grab even the most rusted and rounded-off hardware. Once you’ve dealt with a nut or bolt rounded off by someone skimping by with the wrong socket or wrench, the need for quality tools becomes crystal clear.

 

Extensions of varying lengths provide reach and leverage to make your ratchet or breaker bar more effective.

 

Craftsman sells inexpensive tap and die sets such as this one, which has saved me time and money countless times on engine rebuild projects. It’s a good investment indeed.

 

A set of combination wrenches in graduated sizes between 1/4 and 11⁄4 inches are sure to get a work out on your engine rebuild project.

 

Air tools are a bit pricey, but they speed up the job considerably while saving wear and tear on your arms and hands. I depend on air tools very infrequently with the exception engine removal and teardown, which I find go much quicker with air. I do not make it a practice to use air tools during the assembly phase of my projects, since this is not a time for speed but care and attention to detail.

 

A click-type torque wrench (top) is one item you cannot do without when assembling an engine. The swivel head ratchet (middle) assists getting into tight spots while removing nuts/bolts. The 1/2-inch breaker bar and ratchet (bottom) will help you deal with larger, tighter fasteners.

 

Safety glasses are a must in the home shop when working on or under the car. (Summit Racing)

 

It’s a good idea to clearly label the containers if you are temporarily storing drained fluids, especially if they once held another product. This should help avoid any mishaps.

 

A vacuum gauge is a simple diagnostic tool that can help you pinpoint a number of simple problems that will very often masquerade as major engine malfunctions. I once witnessed an electronic analysis performed on a mid-1970s car that indicated internal engine damage when the cause was actually two deteriorated vacuum hoses that were part of the car’s emissions equipment. A vacuum gauge diagnosed the problem in short order.

 

 

A cooling system pressure tester can also reveal internal engine problems such as leaking head and intake manifold gaskets, as well as issues with the car’s cooling system.

 

A timing light is a useful diagnostic tool when determining if your engine needs a rebuild and an absolute necessity for properly tuning your newly rebuilt engine. Improper ignition timing can cause damage in very short order. The timing light will also indicate if the vacuum and mechanical advance functions of your distributor are working properly. (Summit Racing)

 

A remote starter (right) allows one person to crank the engine over from under the hood while conducting a compression check, adjusting valves, setting ignition points, or finding TDC. (Actron)

 

A compression gauge is a must-have for diagnosis work and can reveal or eliminate several potentially costly engine problems. A compression check and comparison of all the engine’s cylinders, performed with the engine at normal operating temperature, is one of the first and most important steps in the diagnosis stage.

 

A simple and inexpensive 12-volt test light can be used to perform a number of diagnostic tasks relating to the engine’s electrical and ignition system.

 

Feeler gauges are used for setting valve lash, ignition breaker points, and measuring the end gap of piston rings.

 

I keep a set of fine files in my toolbox for detail work. They are useful after filing piston rings to fit. A fine file should be used to remove any burrs left by the filing process. I also use them to clean up keyways on the vibration damper and crankshaft to ensure a smooth fit during reassembly.

 

A multi-meter is a more sophisticated means of checking the electrical system’s function that still carries a reasonable price tag.

 

A dial caliper is an inexpensive and valuable addition to your toolbox. It will allow quick, accurate measurements of smaller parts.

 

Often the piston rings purchased for your rebuild will not have the required end gap when installed in the cylinder bores. In such a case, you will need a specialized tool called a ring filer to remove material from the ends of the individual ring until the gap is correct.

 

Do yourself a favor and invest in this very simple and inexpensive tool. A piston ring expander is a must-have for your rebuild. Attempting to pry piston rings on to a piston will often result in a broken ring and scratches to the sides of the piston. A ring expander will save you time and money.

 

An air-gun attachment for your compressor hose will aid in drying all the nooks, crannies, and bolt holes in your cylinder block after it has been cleaned with soap and water. In a pinch I have used canned air designed for dusting electronic equipment, but that gets expensive quickly.

 

You’ll need a dial indicator with a magnetic base if you intend to degree in your camshaft. (Summit Racing)

 

You can find a complete camshaft degree kit containing everything you need at Summit Racing. Of course, the parts can also be purchased individually. (Summit Racing)

 

Your block may appear clean and shiny when you get it back from the machine shop, but it will still need a thorough cleaning before you can begin assembly. Brushes of various sizes and shapes come in handy to access all the areas of the block effectively. Complete sets of engine cleaning brushes can be obtained from performance parts suppliers such as Eastwood, as shown here. Brushes designed for household duties cleaning firearms also can work in a pinch.

 

I keep an inexpensive, aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge, along with various adapters and plastic line, in my toolbox in order to check the engine oil pressure in cars that have an “idiot light” in place of an actual oil pressure gauge.

 

I would recommend buying a good floor jack and jack stands, as they are not only necessary for the task at hand but will ultimately prove useful for a great many home auto repairs. And while a hoist, engine stand, and certain other specialized tools will be required for your rebuild, it isn’t always necessary to purchase them outright. Many auto parts stores will rent you what you need and, of course, being acquainted with someone who has a well-equipped home shop doesn’t hurt either. You should have at your disposal complete sets of ratchets, extensions and sockets, both standard and deep, in 3/8- and 1/2-inch drive, a quality torque wrench, a full assortment of screw drivers, hex tools, punches and drifts, and combination wrenches in sizes from 1/4- to 11⁄4-inch at the very least. Hammers of various types and a pry bar or two will come in very handy as well. Also, the luxury of an air compressor and pneumatic tools it will make the job easier and quicker to accomplish.

There are some special tools that aren’t very expensive and will be very helpful during the rebuild, and therefore should be considered for purchase. Simple tools such as a ring compressor, ring filer, ring expander, vacuum gauge, timing light, remote starter switch (especially handy for vintage Fords like ours), and others will not only make the job easier, but will be handy to have for future rebuilds as well.

 

Machine Shop Services

When it comes to choosing a machine shop for my Ford engine rebuilds, I have three hard and fast rules that I hope don’t come across as too elitist. Rule Number One: I look around the shop and see no engines with front-mounted distributors, I’m gone. I firmly believe that the idiosyncrasies of certain Ford engines require a machinist with experience in these areas to get things just right. For example, some time back I purchased an FE series cylinder block for a car I’m restoring and while examining work that a previous owner had performed, I noticed that the core plug at the back of the camshaft gallery had been improperly installed. Had the engine been assembled this way it would have allowed the camshaft to “walk” in the block, possibly leading to catastrophic failure.

Which brings me to Rule Number Two: When working on an FE series (332-428) engine, I prefer to see a little gray hair in the shop. This increases the possibility of the individual having been born while this engine series was still in production (1958 to the early 1970s), which means he may have actually seen one of these beasts in person.

Rule Number Three: When considering a performance buildup, I insist on contracting with a shop that has an established reputation for building Ford engines. Many accepted procedures for wringing more power out of, dare I say, a Chevrolet engine are totally different than those applied to Fords and in some cases actually detrimental. On more than one occasion I have seen rare and valuable 427 Ford cylinder blocks that have had their deck surfaces excessively milled (a common procedure used to increase compression on certain General Motors blocks), which resulted in the owner having to purchase custom-made pistons and pay for additional machining processes to restore the engine’s geometry.

 

Part Sources

It’s always been a little harder to find high-quality parts for Ford engines, with the exception of the modern small-block V-8s. Therefore, a reliable source of quality parts is a must before undertaking your rebuild. In this book I will cover three Ford engine series, none of which has been in production for years. As a result, I can almost guarantee that if you were to inquire about even some of the most common pieces for your Lima, Cleveland, or FE series Ford engine in an average auto parts chain, you’ll be met with a blank stare from the eighteen-year-old behind the computer. Personally, I look for an old-time, established auto parts store, where I am likely to encounter employees with years of experience, a willingness to help, and access to actual parts catalogs—not just a computerized inventory.

 

Written by Charles R. Morris and Republished with Permission of CarTech Inc