Mustang Restoration Interior Tip – How to Inspect and Evaluate

We were very lucky to have a headliner that was in such great shape, so there was nothing except clean it. Since we knew there was no roof damage, we just left it alone. Replacing a headliner is pretty straightforward and good reproductions are readily available. There’s clearly some finesse/technique involved, but it doesn’t require a pro.

Our dash pad was in great shape, so we just gave it a mild cleaning and then applied a coat of matte finish protectant. In most cases a damaged dash pad is replaced. It’s inexpensive and there are plenty of good reproductions available. If good is not good enough and/or you need to reuse the OEM dash pad, it can be repaired professionally, usually for a fairly high cost. This may be a necessary choice for a show car that will be judged, but it rarely makes sense for a car that will be driven often and/or when the budget is lower.

The main surfaces of the dashboard and instrument panel rarely require much repair if the car has been maintained. Painted surfaces can be repainted and the woodgrain or “camera case” coverings can also be removed and replaced without much difficulty. However, the plastic “chrome” finish is difficult and costly to refinish. If it is very deteriorated or scratched/damaged, this usually requires replacement. It is possible for these parts to be stripped and a new finish applied, but it’s very costly and environmental regulations make finding a shop that does it is increasingly difficult.

Replacing the clear lenses over the gauges is a common task during a restoration. These can become scratched, cloudy, or otherwise damaged over time. Remove the instrument panel to gain access to them. The difficulty varies by vehicle but it can be more difficult when there is a Rally Pac on the steering column. Be extra cautious about not pulling too hard on any of the wires.

The interior trim panels in our car were in decent shape, for the most part. There were some scratches that would need to be sanded out but no major cracks or pieces broken off. Spot putty and/or sandable primer disguises most minor blemishes. We reused all of these trim pieces by simply sanding, priming, and then painting them. Replacements are available but they generally don’t match the originals perfectly; either replace them as a set or reuse the originals. In some cases they can be mixed, but not usually when the panels are directly next to each other. For example, you might be able to replace only the panels above the steel molding, but you would likely need to replace all of them as a set to get the best appearance. The chrome on the vents and the circular light fixtures was only mildly pitted and thus a good candidate for the steel wool treatment and some touch-up paint.

Another common restoration issue is replacing various interior knobs, buttons, and switches, etc., that have been lost or damaged. Here we see the radio is missing one a button and the knobs can use a bit of a freshening. Replacements are available for most missing parts and little more than a good cleaning is usually required for those parts that are acceptable. Here, again, we have the issue of a less-than-perfect “chrome” finish on the trim piece that surrounds the radio. Real chrome can usually be rubbed out with 0000-grade steel wool and polish to restore a good finish. More severely pitted chrome or plastic parts with a chrome-like finish generally need to be replaced.