Contrary to popular belief, handling and braking are the two most important elements in a Fox Mustang ride, not power. You can have all the power in the world; however, if you cannot maintain control, it becomes downright dangerous.
Right off the assembly line, Fox Mustangs were better handlers than their 1965–1978 counterparts, which didn’t handle or stop very well. The 1974–1978 Mustang II sported an improved front suspension similar to that of Camaro and Firebird, which was clearly a better suspension design than the classic Mustangs had but still had conventional leafs in back. The 1979–1993 Foxes, modeled after the European German Audi Fox, had MacPherson strut coil-spring front suspension with four-link coil springs in back. This made them better handlers right off the bat. They were fitted with power front disc brakes with rear drums, which didn’t say much early on. They handled well, but braking effectiveness was lackluster at best. The darned things needed great binders.
The stock Fox Body front suspension didn’t change much over the production life of the Fox. This is essentially a stock Mustang GT suspension with modest upgrades, such as a heavier stabilizer bar, urethane bushings, thicker coil springs, and heavy-duty struts.
What Fox Mustangs offered buyers was radically improved handling thanks to tighter tolerances and better technology than ever before. This new technology allowed Ford to refine the Fox platform as necessary to meet manufacturing and handling requirements. What this meant for Fox owners was a suspension system engineered for each type of 1979–1993 Mustang be it a GT, SVO, Cobra, or base model.
Prior to 1985, Ford offered buyers three basic types of suspension systems: base, handling, and TRX. The TRX suspension package included those lovely TRX metric wheels and tires everyone likes to throw away or use as yard art today. Beginning in 1982 the GT/Handling Suspension package became mandatory on all V-8 models to bolster handling with the additional power and weight up front. You could also get the TRX suspension and the metric wheels and tires. The GT/Handling Suspension got you heavy-duty springs, a larger front sway bar, handling performance strut/shock valving for better dampening, and a rear sway bar in back. These were all important assets but did not perfect handling.
Another highlight of these early Foxes was Quadra-Shock rear suspension, which arrived late in the 1984 model year on the Mustang SVO (standard on the Thunderbird Turbo Coupe and the Cougar XR-7 Turbo) and standard on the Mustang GT from 1985 to 1993. Midyear 1984 improvements to the Mustang included gas shocks and struts, improved upper MacPherson strut mounts, a larger rear sway bar, rear suspension geometry revision, and a revised front suspension cradle. These were nice improvements that made the Mustang a better ride.
For all the press Quadra-Shock received during the 1980s, it was more of a Band-Aid improvement to the Fox Mustang’s rear suspension than it was a quantum leap in technology. It provided stability with less axle hop; yet didn’t do a whole lot for traction. The whole idea was for the horizontal shocks to stabilize the rear axle. It is debatable whether they were better than the factory traction bars used early in Fox production.
Although the Fox Mustangs sported a lot of nice handling and braking improvements as time went on, there was always room for more improvement. Right off the shelf from Ford Motorsport (now Ford Performance) were nice upgrades you could add yourself. As Fox Mustangs became increasingly popular, the aftermarket became more involved in producing great suspension upgrades for these Mustangs. Steve Saleen was among the first to develop suspension systems for the 1979–1993 Fox Mustangs, which is the beginning of the rest of the Fox Mustang story because now there’s so much available for these rides.
This Tech Tip is from the full book, FOX BODY MUSTANG RESTORATION 1979 – 1993. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
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This is the TRX wheel, size 350 mm x 150 mm, which was available on the Fox from 1979 to 1984. Because this is a metric wheel, finding tires for it can be a challenge, which is why enthusiasts have opted for the telephone dial wheels and the five-spokes. Contact Coker Tire if you have the TRX wheels and insist on using them.
What makes the Fox Mustang different from its predecessors is a more sophisticated four-link rear suspension system with shocks and coil springs. The control arms provide greater stability than archaic leaf springs and shocks. This suspension package sports rear disc brakes, which most Fox Mustangs did not have. Quadra-Shock rear suspension arrived first on the 1984 SVO and then the 1985 Mustang GT. Note the heavy-duty stabilizer bar, which is an upgrade.
Control arms were simple stamped steel pieces, which were lighter and provided the kind of stability the Mustang needed to be competitive in the marketplace. However, they flex considerably in harsh driving conditions, which is where we need improvement.
Here’s a look at the Quadra-Shock rear suspension that first appeared on the 1983 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe and later the 1984–1986 Mustang SVO and the 1985–1993 GT. Ford believed Quadra-Shock provided better traction than traction bars.
Except for the Baer disc brake, this is a completely stock four-link suspension system with stamped steel upper and lower control arms. The factory stabilizer bar is decidedly modest for the kind of handling Mustang enthusiasts crave.
What tends to limit the Fox Mustang’s handling potential is its unit body construction and design. Ford chassis and handling engineers were limited by corporate policy, budget, and standards. As a result, only so much could be done to take improvements outside of the box. What’s more, like their corporate ancestors, they didn’t sport sufficient chassis stiffening when subjected to excessive forces. These unit bodies flexed significantly to cause serious changes to suspension geometry.
A dissection of the Fox Mustang’s platform reveals what was clearly an improvement over its ancestors, but there was also plenty of room for improvement. The car needed a stiffer platform to eliminate flexing, especially in the convertibles. Stamped steel suspension components fore and aft flexed as much as the platform did. What’s more, the platform needed subframe connectors to become solid.
Like most factory performance car lines through the years, much of what we learned from the Fox was gained from motorsports and guys like Steve Saleen, who was the first avid racer to embrace the Fox Mustang and bring it to its potential. Other racers followed suit and went to work engineering a better Fox performance Mustang. The result was PRO 5.0, and the battle was on between Ford and other Detroit automakers. The improvements we have seen in Fox Mustangs, gained via motorsports and the rigors of racing, have benefited us on the street, making the Fox a bold performer and easily the most popular Mustang ever produced from a street and track performance standpoint.
Steering Rack Replacement
Step 1: Steering rack removal begins by busting the tie-rod ends loose from the spindles. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut. The tie-rod end should pop with the whack of a hammer as shown. Use a pickle fork for stubborn tie-rods.
Step 2: The tie-rod ends should fall free. Measure the tie-rod ends with the rack centered to get the new National Parts Depot (NPD) rack into the neighborhood measurement wise.
Step 3: Take note of steering shaft indexing and disconnect the shaft. Ironically, in a vehicle full of metric fasteners, these are SAE at 5/8 and 11/16 inch. Make sure the steering is dead center.
Step 4: Two bolts secure the steering rack to the subframe, and you’ll need two 18-mm wrenches for bolt removal. Because the bolt heads are behind the subframe and the bolts are very long, getting them out is a challenge.
Step 5: Once the bolts are out and power steering pump lines are disconnected, the rack slides out from the side as shown.
Step 6: The factory steering rack bolt bushing must be removed and cut flush as shown here to accommodate the replacement NPD steering rack, which mounts differently.
Step 7: Installation of the new steering rack begins with power steering pressure and return lines. This is the pressure line from the pump. Make sure fittings and seats are clean and free from damage. Even a small nick in a seat will cause a leak.
Step 8: Here we’re installing the return line back to the pump. The return line routes fluid from the rack back to the power steering pump.
Step 9: Power rack bushings are installed next in preparation for installation on the car. The replacement rack is basically the same except for the mounts, which are improved.
Step 10: The original mount bolts have been reinstalled, along with the flat washer shown at each bolt.
Step 11: The new rack slides onto the bolts as shown. This Mustang doesn’t have its 5.0L engine, which makes the swap a whole lot easier.
Step 12: Check out this heavy-duty urethane steering rack mount. There are two of them, one for each side. These mounts give you a more solid, confident feel. Install new tie-rod ends and get toe as close as you can; then get a front-end alignment.
Step 13: NPD includes a new steering shaft that takes the slop out of your steering. Make sure you index it properly and that the rack is centered. Index the steering by cranking the steering rack fully to the right, then fully back to the left, counting the number of turns. Divide the number of turns in half and crank it back to center. Center the steering wheel and connect the steering shaft to the rack.
Step 14: Power steering fluid cooler lines are connected next, an easy task. Because these lines are on the return side, there isn’t enough pressure to be concerned.
Step 15: We’re working with a remanufactured power steering pump from NPD. Pressure and return lines are connected as shown prior to pump installation on the engine. The return line is being connected here. The pressure line (left) has already been connected.
This Tech Tip is from the full book, FOX BODY MUSTANG RESTORATION 1979 – 1993. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE
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Improving Fox Handling and Braking
The performance aftermarket has embraced the 1979–1993 Fox Mustang like a long-lost friend, delivering the extraordinary chassis stiffening, braking, and handling systems these cars need. Even if you never see a racetrack, there’s plenty you can do to make these cars excellent canyon cutters and super commuters that are a blast to drive. Braking and handling improvements not only make them fun but also make them safe.
If you’re performing a concours restoration yet you want the car to handle, consider the 1993 SVT Cobra or the 1984–1986 SVO suspension systems, which are more robust than any other Fox suspension. Anything you can do to improve suspension geometry and function will improve your driving experience.
I’ve found Summit Racing Equipment is a terrific all-around source for Fox Mustang suspension and braking components because I can get virtually everything imaginable from them from Bilstein, Lakewood, Strange Engineering, KYB, AFCO, Koni, Competition Engineering, QA1, Monroe, Gabriel, Ford Performance, Baer, Wilwood, and a host of other manufacturers fiercely committed to the Fox Mustang. It all depends on what you want from your suspension and braking system.
Few companies have done more for Fox Mustang handling than Maximum Motorsports, which has brought us a wealth of terrific upgrades that make a night and day difference in the way these Mustangs handle. Maximum Motorsports has spent countless hours developing and engineering suspension systems for Fox and SN-95 Mustangs, not to mention the newer S197 and S550 steeds. Begin your chassis renaissance with the basics of steering, handling, and braking. Start with a new power steering rack, which tightens up steering input and makes steering crisp again. Don’t order a steering rack from your local discount auto parts store because you’re probably going to be disappointed. Order up a new rack or a verifiable remanufactured rack that has been calibrated to original factory specifications. National Parts Depot (NPD), as one example, offers a vastly improved steering rack for Fox Mustangs coupled with revised mounts and a new steering shaft. It is clearly a better steering rack.
Maximum Motorsports offers replacement quad-shocks for Quadra-Shock Mustangs and has this to say about Quadra-Shock: “A pair of rear horizontally mounted shocks was part of what Ford called the Quadra-Shock rear suspension system. Most commonly called ‘quad shocks,’ these are also known as ‘axle dampers,’ ‘kicker shocks,’ and ‘kickers.’” They continue, “Quad shocks were installed to reduce the axle wind-up that causes wheel hop. They did this by damping out the axle’s tendency to rotate during acceleration. Torque reaction during acceleration makes the axle housing rotate in the direction of raising the forward (pinion side) of the axle housing. The considerable amount of deflection allowed by the eight stock rubber rear control arm bushings of the Mustang four-link let the axle wind up, and then rotate back, in a cyclic manner. This causes wheel hop, which literally does mean that the tire loses traction as it leaves the ground. Wheel hop can become violent enough to cause parts breakage.”
Maximum Motorsports Suspension Installation
Step 1: Maximum Motorsports seems to have the market cornered for Fox Mustang suspension upgrades. Bruce Couture of Modern Driveline is about to shelve his Mustang GT’s suspension system and install a complete Maximum Motorsports package. Here are the Maximum Motorsports front struts, springs, and adjustment tool.
Step 2: This fully adjustable camber plate allows complete adjustment from the top without having to crawl underneath. Only toe is adjusted from underneath.
Step 3: These tubular control arms are supported by polyurethane bushings, which give your Fox stability it has never had before. Installation is easy and you will never have to rebuild your suspension again.
Step 4: Torrington bearings provide spring support and full, smooth articulation without the binding we see with traditional struts.
Step 5: Bruce assembles the struts on his workbench as shown, setting the strut up for installation. Setup is simple with the coilspring support, adjuster, and spring positioned as shown. This coilover package replaces the stock coil spring between the control arm and subframe.
Step 6: Tie-rod ends are disconnected as shown, which disconnects the spindle.
Step 7: With the control arm properly supported with a jack, Bruce carefully lowers the control arm to free up the coil spring. Remember that these coil springs pack a lot of pressure and are dangerous if they suddenly become uncontained. Protect yourself and stand away from the path of an uncontained spring.
Step 8: Tubular control arms are assembled using the lubricant provided. Always wear protective gloves with this silicone lubricant. It penetrates your skin and is impossible to wash off.
Step 9: Control arms are carefully positioned and installed using the factory hardware or Grade-8 hardware you can purchase anywhere.
Step 10: The camber plates are installed next, with the spacers positioned as shown here. The camber plate allows full strut articulation and adjustment.
Step 11: Bruce slips the strut through the camber plate and secures the strut on top.
Step 12: Once the locknut is secure on top, it is tightened using an air impact gun for fast completion. The best approach is to start the nut and then secure the strut at the spindle.
Step 13: Starting the strut-to-spindle bolts can be tricky due to spring pressure issues. Bruce uses a punch to align the holes and start the bolts.
Step 14: The bump steer tie-rod end from QA1 is reconnected and secured as shown. The bump steer end link is an affordable Fox upgrade.
Step 15: Your front suspension conversion should resemble this when you’re finished. Bruce has already upgraded to a heavy-duty stabilizer bar, which has been reconnected and fitted with urethane bushings and end links.
Step 16: Maximum Motorsports offers complete rear suspension packages, including these beefy lower control arms, which also enhance traction. These brute pieces, which do not budge, replace your stamped steel control arms. Stiffer springs deliver a lower ride height and a firmer ride.
Step 17: Bruce supports the rear axle with a screw jack to gain the flexibility he needs to remove the old springs and control arms.
Step 18: The rear sway bar, which is attached to the lower control arms, is disconnected and removed first. Make sure the rear axle is adequately supported.
Step 19: Shock absorbers are disconnected as shown. Bruce slowly relaxes the screw jack and lowers the rear axle for coil-spring removal.
Step 20: Coil springs are removed next and placed on the shelf for safekeeping. It’s always good to keep them around for a restoration and future use.
Step 21: Lower control arms are removed next and, like the coil springs, stored for future use.
Step 22: Polyurethane bushings are lubricated and pressed into the arms. Again, protect your hands with latex gloves. You do not want this stuff on your skin.
Step 23: The lower control arms are installed and fitted with Grade-8 hardware.
Step 24: A large center punch is used to center the bushing and allow bolt access. Expect to encounter a tight fit when you install these arms.
Step 25: New springs are fitted to each lower control arm and seated. The control arm is raised into position to secure the spring.
Step 26: Once the axle has been raised into position and the springs are in place, the shocks are installed and bolted into place.
Maximum Motorsports goes on to say, “Installation of the MM Torque-arm eliminates the axle wind-up that causes wheel hop. Installation of most aftermarket rear lower control arms will usually eliminate enough of the deflection to allow removal of the quad-shocks. Removal does depend upon the total rear suspension package; it is an experiment. Remove the quad-shocks; if wheel hop persists, then reinstall.”
Despite Ford’s best efforts to improve the Mustang’s handling and braking performance, the car simply lacked the true handling performance it needed through the end of production in 1993. The 1993 SVT Cobra and Cobra R Mustangs had the best suspension ever factory installed on a Fox Mustang, with one exception being the 1984–1986 SVO, which delivered extraordinary handling, power, and comfort. The Cobra and SVO all felt solid through a canyon pass and on the racetrack. They were, and still are, great fun to drive. Maximum Motorsports shows you how to make them better.
K-Member Swap
Step 1: Now, Bruce is going to install the Maximum Motorsports K-member, or subframe, which changes front suspension geometry for better handling. You must order control arms specific to the Maximum Motorsports subframe; they are a different length than factory replacements.
Step 2: The front suspension is removed to gain access to the stock subframe. The control arms and the spindles are disconnected and removed.
Step 3: The steering rack, which is bolted to the subframe, must be removed next. You need to completely remove the steering rack to get the subframe out.
Step 4: With the factory subframe removed, we’re ready for the Maximum Motorsports subframe, which is stronger and of a different geometry than the stock subframe. This guy bolts to the frame rails in the same place as the factory subframe. Bruce uses a transmission jack to install the subframe. By the way, your engine and transmission are bolted to the subframe. Both must be supported.
Step 5: The subframe is bolted to the frame rails like this. I suggest using a thread locker on these bolt threads as added security.
Step 6: Control arms and struts are reinstalled to the subframe. Bruce uses a large center punch to line up the bolt holes.
Written by Jim Smart and republished with permission of CarTech Inc
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