Once you have disassembled the engine, selected the best parts, and finished the machine work, it may seem as if the toughest part of a rebuild is over, but it isn’t. As with every other aspect of a Modular engine rebuild, the assembly is challenging and requires your closest attention to detail. If you overlook an important detail, you risk expensive engine damage and may need to start the rebuild all over again.
The 4.6L and 5.4L Modular V-8s must be approached differently than any other engine you’ve ever done. And that’s because you’re dealing with close tolerances and the highest levels of precision. Good old-fashioned shortcuts do not work with this engine, which means it is very important to follow procedure. One question before you start: How clean is your engine assembly room? Even tiny amounts of dust and dirt (house dust) can damage an engine. If you believe debris just washes away with oil flow and becomes trapped in the oil filter, guess again. You’re talking about your engine’s ever-important oil wedge between moving parts. If contaminants flow to the oil pan and into the oil, they can damage the oil pump rotors and housing before being trapped by the oil filter. And if the particles are small enough, they pass right through filter material (depending on the filter), doing engine damage along the way.
This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, 4.6L & 5.4L FORD ENGINES: HOW TO REBUILD. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE
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Ford’s Modular V-8 mandates a methodical approach to assembly. Cut corners and you get to do it all over again. Follow Ford’s specifications to the letter.
Surfaces must be bone dry between bearings and saddles. Bearings should receive liberal amounts of engine assembly lube to ensure lubrication during initial start-up.
Always assemble your engine in a hospital-clean environment, not in a dirty garage, outbuilding, body shop, or outside in the sun and wind. Dust flies on the wind all the time. Avoid engine assembly on windy days. Ideally, assemble your engine on a rainy day when dust fallout is minimal. Also, when you’re not working on your engine, keep it bagged.
The Block
The Modular engine family has Romeo and Windsor bloodlines that must be approached differently. Although both the Romeo and Windsor blocks are rugged cross-bolted designs, they each cross bolt the block differently. Romeo blocks use a jackscrew main cap design, which requires torquing the main caps and then the jackscrews to precise specifications. The Windsor unit has a tapered dowel-pin design, which requires less assembly time and proper torquing of fixed bolts. The jury is still out on which is a better design.
Not only are Romeo and Windsor main caps different, the number-5 main thrust bearings are different as well. Romeo blocks employ a three-piece thrust bearing; Windsor blocks use a four-piece design. When you order main bearings, be sure to specify which plant built your block.
Step 1: Romeo Main Caps Are a Jackscrew Design (Torque Fasteners)
Romeo main caps use a jackscrew cross-bolt design. Torque these main caps to 27 to 32 ft-lbs and 85 to 95 degrees. Then torque the jackscrews, first to 4 ft-lbs, and then 7 ft-lbs. Torque the cross bolts (also known as side bolts) to 7 ft-lbs, and then 14 to 17 ft-lbs from the center out.
Torqued Romeo jackscrew looks like this. When you apply 7 ft-lbs of torque on the jackscrew, it applies tension to the block skirt and provides main cap security. The cross bolt, installed from outside, secures the main cap and jackscrew. The 1991–1995 Romeo blocks have eight jackscrews and cross bolts. The number-5 main cap is not cross-bolted from 1991–1995. Beginning in 1996, all Romeo block main caps had jackscrews and cross bolts. Romeo performance blocks don’t have jackscrews, but instead interference-fit main caps and cross bolts.
Step 2: Windsor Main Caps are a DowelPin Design (Important!)
Windsor main caps have a provision for dowel pins instead of jackscrews as you see on Romeo blocks. Torque the main caps with a 13-mm socket to 27 to 32 ft-lbs, and then to 85 to 95 degrees on the torque-angle gauge. Install the dowel pins and hammer them into place. Next, install the cross bolts (also called side bolts) from the outside and torque them to 20 to 24 ft-lbs, and then 85 to 95 degrees. The Windsor block has no jackscrew adjusters. Bolt threads should be lubricated with moly lube or engine oil. Never install and torque bolts dry.
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Side by side, you can see the difference between Windsor (left) and Romeo (right) blocks . The Windsor, without dowel pins, has holes on each side of each main cap. Romeo jackscrew main caps are flush on each side.
Step 3: Install Main Bearings
Measure the crank with a micrometer and check bearing clearances. Main bearing clearances should be .0011 to .0026 inch. Rod bearing clearances should be .0010 to .0027 inch. If your nodular iron crank required only micropolishing, use aluminum-shell bearings. Surfaces between bearing and block must be bone dry. Never use lubricant between bearing and saddle. Both main and rod bearings are crush-fit design because you don’t want them to turn in the saddles.
Step 4: Apply Engine Assembly Lube to Main Bearings (Important!)
Apply engine assembly lube to all main bearings. You may use engine oil, but assembly lube has staying power for that first firing, especially if your engine is going to sit for an extended period of time. It’s paramount to use plenty of engine assembly lube on all journals and bearings. You can never use too much. Do not use any lubricant between bearings and block.
Step 5: Set the Crankshaft
Install the crankshaft but take extra care to observe crank-to-bearing contact. Once it’s seated, turn the crank slowly to evaluate the smoothness of rotation. Study patterns in the assembly lube on the journals. Look for pressure points. Is there uniformity? Also check the crankshaft for runout. The maximum allowable crankshaft runout is .002 inch (.050 mm).
Step 6: Install Main Bearings in Caps
Bearing shells are seated in main bearing caps. Again, it should be bone dry between bearings and caps. Feel for uniform crush. Apply generous amounts of assembly lube between the bearing and the crankshaft journal.
Step 7: Seat Main Bearing Caps
Seat the main caps so they are perfectly square with the block. Jackscrews (Romeo block only) should be completely screwed in so they do not interfere with block skirts. You want complete freedom of movement in the main caps. Windsor blocks employ dowels, which are installed when all main bearing caps are torqued to spec.
Step 8: Torque Main Stud Nuts (Torque Fasteners)
These ARP main studs have been installed in the 4.6L SOHC block, so this is not a torque-to-yield installation. Torque main studs in a conventional manner to ARP specifications in onethird values. The total torque is 60 to 65 ft-lbs. Once you have torqued the main studs nuts, check the torque again. Main studs do not have to be torqued, just snugged by hand, but not bottomed out. It is the main stud nuts that must be torqued to ARP specifications. Remember that all threads and nut faces need ARP lube to achieve proper torque value.
Step 9: Snug Jackscrews (Important!)
Because you’re building a 1996 Romeo 4.6L engine, you have jackscrews to torque and set. With dowel pins (Windsor engines), all you have to do is tap them in place before installing cross bolts. Torque Romeo jackscrews to 4 ft-lbs, and then 7 ft-lbs. Torque cross bolts to 14 to 17 ft-lbs. Torque Windsor cross bolts to 20 to 24 ft-lbs, and then 85 to 95 degrees with a torque-angle gauge.
Step 10: Check Crankshaft Endplay (Critical Measurement)
Measure the crankshaft on a stock 4.6L Modular engine for an endplay of .006 to .012 inch. It should be closer to .014 inch if you’re going racing. Check endplay before side bolts are torqued, and then again after. Check the crank rotation as you torque main cap studs/bolts and again when you torque the side bolts. You should be able to turn the crank with your fingertips. The crankshaft should spin smoothly and not bind up when it rotates.
Step 11: A Word About Jackscrews
Romeo jackscrews should be completely flush with main caps during installation and torqued to where they don’t interfere with main cap installation. These jackscrews unscrew outward to contact the block when torqued. Cross bolts haul block skirts and jackscrews up tight.
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Step 12: Set and Torque Jackscrews (Torque Fasteners)
Torque the jackscrews to 4 ft-lbs, and then 7 ft-lbs before cross bolt installation and torquing.
Fasteners
Before you build the bottom end, you need to think about fasteners. Automotive Racing Products (ARP) is surely the best fastener company. Why? Because it has long been in the aerospace fastener business where integrity must be to the highest standards.
ARP suggests you think of fasteners like springs. As you tighten them, they stretch to create a certain amount of tension to hold components together. Three basic tools can be used to determine how much tension you place on a fastener: torque-to-yield (torque-angle), torque wrench, and stretch gauge.
Proper fastener function requires proper tension. Fastener tension places a load on whatever the fastener is clamping together, which is called clamping force. To have proper torque (tension) on a fastener you need to understand where its yield point is. When a fastener yields, it exceeds its proper tension and stops providing clamping force. In other words, the fastener has been stretched too far, and the clamping force goes away.
The type of material being fastened is another aspect to consider when the fastener reaches tension. Aluminum is softer than iron, which also dictates torque value. Anytime a fastener is over-torqued, it has exceeded its yield point. Even if the yield is as little as .001 inch, the fastener is ruined, and it must be discarded. This is why the Modular engine employs torque-to-yield fastener technique. All fasteners must have lubricated threads to achieve an accurate torque reading.
Torque-to-Yield
Torque-to-yield is also known as the torque angle. Bolt or stud stretch is determined by the number of degrees of rotation that occur after the fastener is tightened to specification with a torque wrench. According to ARP, thread pitch and material determine torque angle. The amount of stretch from a given fastener determines how many degrees the fastener can be tightened beyond its initial torque value.
Step 13: Reconditioned Rods Ready for Installation
These reconditioned cracked powdered-metal connecting rods have been fitted with new bolts from Ford and are good to go. Bolts for these rods are not currently available from ARP. [AU: still true?]
Step 14: Check Gap on Pre-Gapped Rings (Performance Tip)
JGM Performance Engineering specified pre-gapped Speed Pro rings from Summit Racing Equipment. Always check ring end gaps as a matter of practice. Better safe than sorry. Ring end gap should be .006 to .010 inch for top rings and .010 to .016 inch for secondary rings.
Step 15: Piston Rings Blueprint
Not all ring sets are pre-gapped. When you pre-gap rings, it’s a good idea to file edges smooth to reduce internal friction. Many shops, such as MCE Engines in Los Angeles, California, practice ring blueprinting as a matter of routine.
Step 16: Assemble Pistons and Rods
Heat up and slide pins home on cracked powdered-metal connecting rods, such as these that use press-fit piston pins. As the rod cools, it contracts around the pin for a solid interference fit. Remember, connecting rods and pistons install only one way. Directional bumps on rods should always face the front of the engine, as should the arrows on the pistons.
Step 17: Never Install Oil Rings Like This (Important!)
When installing piston rings, never distort them to this degree. This kind of ring distortion weakens the metal’s integrity and alters consistency, and therefore, poor ring seating causes blow-by.
Step 18: Install Oil Rings Like This
Roll your oil rings on like this, putting end gaps 180 degrees opposite of each other. Make sure the oil-ring expander ends meet flush without overlap. Check the oil ring’s fit and slide. Oil each of the grooves with engine oil (not with assembly lube).
Step 19: Install Top and Secondary Rings
Never roll on primary or secondary piston rings. Always use a ring-expansion tool (shown). Follow the piston ring manufacturer’s instructions to the letter. Use Speed Pro rings from Summit Racing Equipment. Again, get those ring end gaps 180-degrees apart, but not lined up with oil-ring end gaps. Check the rings for freedom of movement.
Step 20: Use Billet Ring Compressor (Professional Mechanic Tip)
Use a billet piston ring compressor for easy installation. Pistons are a smooth press fit this way. Take extra care to ensure the big end doesn’t strike the cylinder wall or crank journal. Place a vacuum hose over the connecting rod studs to help prevent cylinder wall damage. Once the rings have been compressed into the piston, use a plastic mallet to carefully tap the piston into the bore. Â
Step 21: Check Piston Deck Height (Critical Inspection)
Verify piston deck height to confirm the amount of space when the pistons reach TDC. Most engine builders check the number-1 cylinder only. I recommend checking all eight and recording the measurements. This information gives you true TDC on all eight cylinders. Being redundant leaves nothing to chance.
Crankshaft endplay must always be checked to determine how much the crank moves end to end. You want crank endplay to be modest to ensure good piston/rod/bore/timing set alignment. Excessive crankshaft endplay means excessive side loads, which can lead to engine failure.
Step 22: Install Rear Main Seal (Professional Mechanic Tip)
The one-piece real main seal is one of the best things to ever happen to Ford engines. However, take nothing for granted in your installation. Circle the seal opening with The Right Stuff gasket sealer and carefully press the seal in place. The seal lip always goes toward the inside. Be careful not to disturb the seal spring. Lose this spring and your seal will leak. Use a soft mallet to gently tap it into place on the cover.
This rear main seal has been lubricated around its lip and is carefully positioned to prevent damage. JGM has used The Right Stuff around the rear cover for optimum sealing. These bolts call for an 8-mm socket and are torqued to 8 ft-lbs in a gentle crisscross fashion until the cover is seated.
Step 23: Install Oil Pump
We’re using a new Speed Pro high-volume oil pump. Use caution as you seat the pump and use The Right Stuff sparingly around pump passage contact surfaces. This may be difficult because this pump is challenging to fit around the crankshaft flat spots. Don’t give up. Work rotor contact surfaces until it slips over the crank. Bolts get torqued to 8 ft-lbs with an 8-mm socket.
Step 24: Always Prime Oil Pump (Professional Mechanic Tip)
It’s easy to forget to prime the oil pump if you are used to conventional submerged G-rotor pumps in older Ford V-8s, which tend to self-prime and yield immediate pressure on start-up. The Modular oil pump must be primed. Forget to prime this pump with assembly lube or high-viscosity engine oil and you do not get oil pressure on start-up. Fill the pump cavity to capacity with engine assembly lube because this engine has such a long oil pick-up. You want immediate oil pressure on start-up.
Step 25: Check Oil Pump Pick-Up-to-Pan Clearance
You want the pick-up point to clear the bottom of the pan by at least .060 inch. Ideally, you have 1/4 inch between pick-up and pan. Measure the pick-up, and then measure the pan depth.
Torque angle or torque-to-yield gives a more accurate measure of bolt stretch than resistance shown via simple torque wrench. Resistance to torque creates the same challenge for both a torque wrench and torque-to-yield because thread irregularities affect torque. Damaged and dirty threads yield bad information. Material also determines torque readings because iron and aluminum are dynamically different.
Torque Wrench
When torque-to-yield isn’t realistic, a torque wrench is the only means of determining fastener stretch. The chosen lubricant is of central importance to torque value. In fact, ARP recommends tightening and loosening a fastener at least five times before performing the final torque if you’re using ARP lube. Surface finish and material are also important to proper torque value. ARP cautions that black oxide tightens differently than a polished surface.
Stretch Gauge
A stretch gauge is the most accurate means of measuring the tension/stretch of rod bolts and other types of fasteners. ARP recommends measuring a fastener before torquing, and then monitoring stretch as you tighten. If you discover a permanent stretch of .001 inch or more, the fastener should be discarded.
ARP Main Studs
When installing ARP main studs, always lubricate the threads with either 30-weight engine oil or ARP moly lube. And remember, torque values differ with engine oil and ARP moly lube. Refer to the ARP website for specific torque information based on bolt/stud size and application.
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The main caps’ studs and bolts are always torqued before the side bolts. The main caps secure the crank, and jackscrews (Romeo) and dowels (Windsor) provide stability. For Modular blocks without jackscrews or dowels with a flush fit, cross bolts alone provide stability when properly torqued.
Rod Bolt Torque Angle
Modular engine connecting rod bolts receive the torque-to-yield treatment for accurate bolt tension and stretch. New rod bolts from Ford are mandatory. Bolts and threads must be lubricated with engine oil.
Cracked powdered-metal connecting rod bolts need to be torqued to 18 ft-lbs first, then 30 ft-lbs, and then 90 degrees more on the torque-angle gauge. Simply put, you tighten the rod bolt to a total of 30 ft-lbs, then tighten each bolt another 90 degrees. Never guess at this. Buy or rent a torque-angle gauge.
Step 26: Install New Core Plugs
Block core plugs should always be replaced. Never keep galvanized steel plugs. Use brass or stainless steel plugs. Use The Right Stuff gasket sealer around the perimeters. Use the deepest plug possible for solid fit and security.
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Step 27: Use Torque-Angle Gauge
Torque-to-yield or torque angle may seem like a new thing, but this approach has been around a long time. It accurately determines bolt stretch and tension.
Crankshaft and Camshaft Endplay
Not everyone checks crankshaft and camshaft endplay, but you should and here’s why: Crankshaft alignment with reciprocating stock is crucial to performance and engine life. If you have a crankshaft that wanders in the block more than .014 inch, a major alignment problem could lead to engine failure. When the crankshaft moves more than .014 inch, the connecting rod piston pins harshly load each piston. Crank movement adversely affects everything attached, including the oil pump, timing chains, crank trigger wheel, seals; everything.
But there is a viable solution. Excessive crankshaft endplay can be resolved with an oversize thrust bearing. In the worst-case scenario, you have to source another crankshaft. This is why a mock-up build is a good idea before the final build. Also do a mock-up before balancing.
Camshaft endplay is crucial for the same reason: alignment with the rest of the engine. You want cam lobes smack on each rocker arm, and the timing chains in perfect alignment. Camshaft endplay for the SOHC/DOHC is .001 to .007 inch.
Cylinder Head Installation
Modular engine cylinder head installation must be approached with the same attention to detail discussed elsewhere in this book. Camshafts must be positioned so all valves are closed or in a state of closing/opening. If you mindlessly install these heads just any old way, you will bend valves when it’s time to torque the heads. Both camshaft timing marks should be positioned at approximately 11 to 12 o’clock, which positions the valve where it belongs. Ford offers a camshaft holder, which locks around each camshaft to keep valve positioning secure during installation.
This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, 4.6L & 5.4L FORD ENGINES: HOW TO REBUILD. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE
SHARE THIS ARTICLE:Â Please feel free to share this article on Facebook, in Forums, or with any Clubs you participate in. You can copy and paste this link to share: https://www.diyford.com/how-to-assembly-ford-4-6l-5-4l-engines-step-by-step/
Degreeing Cams
Degreeing cams is just as important with an overhead cam engine as it is with an overhead valve and for the same reasons. You degree camshafts to learn piston position and valve timing events. Valve timing events are important to performance, efficiency, and reliability.
Degreeing cams on an overhead valve Modular engine is more involved than it is with a cam-in-block engine. You need four special tools: a crankshaft holder and a cam degreeing kit from Ford (special rocker arm with a dial-indicator tab and a steel dial-indicator plate for the cylinder head), a degree wheel, and a dial indicator. Â
Here are the basic steps:
First, find true TDC through the spark plug hole. This is where the crank journal rolls to exactly 12 o’clock. There’s a certain amount of dwell time in which crank journal, connecting rod, and piston pause at TDC. True TDC is at the middle of this dwell moment. The longer the connecting rod, the longer the dwell time, which is one secret to making power.
Once you establish true TDC, you determine valve-timing events as they relate to piston travel. The Ford cam degreeing kit has a tabbed rocker arm for the intake valve, but not the exhaust valve. This is difficult to understand considering you want to know valve-timing events on both valves. This is why I’m convinced you can make your own cam degreeing kit if you have access to someone who can weld. All you need are two Modular engine roller rocker arms and some .060-inch metal stock.
Step 28: Correctly Index Camshafts Before Head Installation
To set up the cylinder heads for installation, you need to adjust the cam indexing. The reason for proper indexing is to prevent valve-to-piston contact and engine damage.
Step 29: Install Head Gaskets (Professional Mechanic Tip)
Block deck surfaces must be hospital clean and ready for head gaskets. Use a lint-free tack rag instead of a shop towel to keep lint out of your engine. Even a piece of lint hinders gasket sealing. Lay the gasket on the deck and make sure it is in the correct position. Clean the cylinder head surfaces for installation. There must be absolutely no dust or lint on contact surfaces. Closely inspect all coolant passages and contact surfaces.
Step 30 : Use Ford Camshaft Holder (Special Tool)
You need Ford special tools for camshaft positioning and timing: Crankshaft Holding Tool 303-448 (T93P-6303-A), Camshaft Holding Tool 303-557 (T96T-6256-B), and Camshaft Positioning Tool 303-S568 (T96T-6256-AR).
Step 31: Check Camshaft Timing Marks
The camshaft sprocket timing mark is in this position. Make sure valve positioning is such that all valves are closed or almost closed. If any valve is all the way open, you will bend the valve. Double-check all timing marks.
Step 32: Install Cylinder Heads (Professional Mechanic Tip)
Set each casting on block dowel pins. Use The Right Stuff where cylinder head gaskets meet timing chain alleys. This keeps oil drain-back where it belongs, inside the engine. Slowly and carefully lower the head onto the dowels. Be diligent and don’t let it slip and slam down on the deck surface.
Step 33: Torque Cylinder Head Bolts
Work from the center out on the torque-to-yield cylinder head bolts using a 13-mm socket. The Modular engine has long head bolts that reach deep into the block to prevent deck distortion. Lubricate bolt threads with engine oil, torque them to 30 ft-lbs, then add 90 degrees using a torque-angle gauge. Loosen all head bolts a minimum of one full turn. Torque them again to 30 ft-lbs and add 90 degrees. Then, add another 90 degrees. Put a light coat of motor oil on the head bolts before installing them. Be sure not to use too much. If you do, the oil pools in the bolt hole and hydro locks during torquing to give you a false reading. If the torque reading is inaccurate you could cause major damage.
Step 34: Understanding Cam and Crank Sprockets
To get your valve timing set up you need all these valvetrain sprockets. The trigger wheel is pre-2001.
Step 35: Timing Chain Tensioners (Save Money)
Prior to 2001, all Modular engines came with iron timing chain tensioners. These are in good condition and reusable, which saves the cost of new tensioners.
Step 36: Use Steel Chain Guides
Chain guides are steel with nylon contact surfaces. If one of these chain guides is damaged during cleaning, your Ford dealer may have a replacement.
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Step 37: Install Crank Gears
Install the crank gears first, with shoulders toward the timing cover. These are identical gears, which slide onto the crankshaft. Once installed they are retained by timing chains and the harmonic balancer.
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Step 38: Use Ford’s Crankshaft Holder (Special Tool)
Ford’s Crankshaft Holding Tool 303-448 (T93P-6303-A) ensures proper crankshaft positioning for timing purposes. It is impossible to install this tool incorrectly.
Step 39: Set Up Timing Marks (Professional Mechanic Tip)
Timing marks are in the correct position at around 11 to 12 o’clock. The dark chain links line up with the timing marks on the cam and crank sprockets.
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Step 40: Install Timing Chain Tensioners
If you use the original iron tensioners, they must first be compressed and locked for installation. They do not install uncompressed. Tensioners go to work when you fire the engine and the oil pressure comes up. The oil pressure maintains pressure against the chain guides.
Once the tensioner is secure and the chain guide is against the chain, remove the pin and release the tensioner.
Step 41: Install Reluctor Wheel (Important!)
Install the reluctor wheel (also known as a trigger wheel) with the concave side toward the timing cover (away from the engine block). If you’re building a Modular with the stamped-steel reluctor, teeth must point away from the block toward the timing cover. If you point teeth toward the block and away from the timing cover, your engine will experience damage and failure. The harmonic dampener holds the reluctor wheel in place.
Step 42: Torque Camshaft Sprockets
Torque cam sprocket bolts to 30 ft-lbs with an 18-mm socket, plus 90 degrees for M10 engines. For the M12, 90 ft-lbs.
Final Assembly
You’re entering the home stretch and your Modular V-8 is beginning to look like an engine. You have put together a complete long-block assembly, ready to fire. Now install the timing cover, cam covers, induction system, exhaust manifolds or headers, and all electronics
Close attention needs to be paid to things that can leak. Gasket contact surfaces need to be hospital clean and without debris, including old gasket material. Because the Modular engine employs advanced gasket technology, these engines go together easily. Unlike older engines that require scraping off old cork or rubber gasket material, Modular engines have perfect-fit silicone, urethane, and steel gaskets, which makes them easy to install.
For example, oil pan gaskets are made of plastic and silicone. Cam cover gaskets are molded silicone strips that fit in grooves. Other parts of the Modular engine have O-ring seals, such as the water pump and thermostat housing. Still others have paper gaskets. Crankshaft seals are durable and last the life of an engine. In fact, they may outlast the engine, at more than 200,000 miles without any leaks.
During engine assembly, pay extra attention to unions where oil or coolant leakage can occur, such as where the head and block meet the timing cover. If left untouched, these seams can leak oil. Likely one of the Modular engine’s weakest leak links is where heads, block, and timing cover meet. This is why you want a thin dab of The Right Stuff between heads and block where they meet the timing cover.Â
Step 43: Always Degree Cams (Precision Measurement)Â
Degreeing the cams is mandatory if you want to have a clear understanding of piston and valve timing events. This is a more involved process for Modular engines than it is with overhead-valve pushrod engines.
Step 44: Use Ford Cam Degreeing Kit Sp (Special Tool)
The Ford cam degreeing kit includes this modified roller rocker arm with tab for the dial indicator. Unfortunately, Ford includes only an intake rocker, so the piece does not fit the exhaust valve. Although valve-to-piston clearance isn’t as critical with exhaust valves, it would be nice to have both. Because the intake valve is larger, risk of contact is greater. If the intake valve clears, the exhaust valve is likely okay.
Step 45: Find True TDC (Precision Measurement)
Set up the engine to find true TDC. This is performed with a piston position rod and dial indicator, which rises with the piston. Rotate the crank slowly, and when the indicator comes to a full stop, you have reached TDC.
Step 46: Record Valve Timing Events (Documentation Required)
Check and record intake valve timing events with a degree wheel and dial indicator. If valve timing events are off significantly, check again. If they are still far off, remove the heads and consult the cam manufacturer. Ascertain you have proper valve timing to begin with, meaning that the timing marks and links are properly positioned.
Step 47: Install Crankshaft Oil Seal
Swab the crank seal opening in the timing cover with sealant and then install the crankshaft oil seal. I like this yellow sealer called Gaskacinch. It is thin and flows nicely. And when it cures, you have no leaks. Drive in the seal using a seal driver. Position the seal lip toward the inside.
Step 48: Use Sealer at the Corners (Professional Mechanic Tip)
Install silicone seals at this time. Put a dab of The Right Stuff at all unions, just enough so it doesn’t seep out upon installation.
Step 49: Install Timing Cover
Install the timing cover with the crankshaft oil seal lubricated with engine oil or assembly lube. Take note of the fastener locations. Studded fasteners call for an 18-mm deep-well socket. The bolts are 13 mm. Gently run these bolts down until gaskets and cover are flush, then use the following torque readings: bolts 1 through 7, 15 to 22 ft-lbs; bolts 8 through 15, 30 to 41 ft-lbs.
Step 50: Install Oil Pan
It’s easy to like Modular engine gasket technology. Just lay these formed gaskets in place and install the fasteners. Torque the fasteners to 18 in-lbs in a criss-cross fashion using a 13-mm socket, and then to 15 ft-lbs the same way.
Step 51: Install Cam CoversÂ
SOHC valve covers are made of plastic, fitted with rubber/plastic fastener seals and silicone gaskets. Remove the old fastener seals and install new ones. New fastener seals are a press-fit design and push right in using your fingers. Check the gasket grooves for debris and install new silicone gaskets. Position the tabs against mating surfaces. Torque the fasteners to 71 to 106 in-lbs using an 8-mm deep-well socket in a criss-cross fashion. Do not over-torque.
Step 52: Install Intake Manifold Gaskets
Use alignment pins for security when you install the intake manifold gaskets. Make sure all contact surfaces are clean.
Step 53: Install Heater Tube (Important!)
Replace the heater transfer tube hose in the valley. Reuse the factory clamps. This step applies only to Romeo engines. Windsor engines have a solid tube.
Step 54: Install Intake Manifold
Line up the intake mainfold with the mounting holes in the heads. Gently lower the mainfold into the correct position.
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Torque the manifold bolts carefully to 18 ft-lbs. Do this in onethird values, following an inside-out pattern.
Step 55: Install Low Oil Level Sensor
This is the low-oil sensor, which is nothing more than an on/off float switch. You may as well replace it at this time.
Step 56: Replace All Sensors (Professional Mechanic Tip)
Replace all electronic engine control sensors, switches, and controllers. Most sensors are easily fastened to the castings with bolts or other simple fasteners and plugged into the wiring harness. This gets your Modular engine off to a fresh start with electronic engine control that does what it was designed to do. You want spark timing and fuel curve to be spot on for maximum reliability and performance; an engine you can count on.
Step 57: Install New Water Pump and Thermostat
Gasket technology has improved ten fold over the classics. The water pump and thermostat housing use O-rings instead of gaskets. Install a new water pump by torquing the water pump bolts to 15 to 22 ft-lbs using a 13-mm socket. Install a new 195-degree thermostat with new O-rings and lubricate them with waterproof grease. Gently seat these parts, being careful not to tear the O-rings.
 
Step 58: Install Exhaust Manifolds/Headers
A Fel-Pro gasket set from Summit Racing Equipment includes fresh high-temperature exhaust manifold gaskets. Torque the exhaust manifold nuts. Do not over-torque them.
Step 59: Install Crank and Cam Sensors
The cam and crank sensors are magnetic pulse sensors that interface with the ECM. Use an 8-mm socket to install them. Use new O-rings.
Step 60: Install Oil Filter/Water Neck (Torque Fasteners)
Install the oil filter/water neck along with a new Fel-Pro gasket. Use a 10-mm socket and torque to 15 to 22 ft-lbs.
Step 61: Install Front Dress
I suggest that you install new pulleys and a new tensioner. They ensure your serpentine belt stays on course. Install the belt tensioner using a 13-mm socket. Begin life anew with a new alternator while you’re at it. This is money well spent for peace of mind. When the serpentine belt is installed, the spring tension keeps it secure. Examine the belt-length indicator at the pivot to determine proper belt size. Remember that a 4.6L uses a six-rib belt while the 5.4L uses an eight-rib belt.
Step 62: Mount Throttle Body
The throttle body is the crowning touch, along with a new Fel-Pro gasket, idle air controller (speed adjuster), and EGR valve. Torque these 8-mm bolt heads to 7 ft-lbs in a criss-cross pattern for uniform tightness. Ford stresses not to clean the throttle plate or bore with any kind of solvent to avoid damaging the protective coating.
Step 63: Prepare Engine for Install (Torque Fasteners)
Most 4.6L and 5.4L Modular engines have a belt arrangement like this. There are some exceptions, such as the Mustang and Explorer, which have additional idler pulleys. However, the basics are the same across the board from 1991–present.
Written by George Reid and Posted with Permission of CarTechBooks
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