The 6.0 engine was offered from 2003 to 2007. The 2003 model year is somewhat different from later models, as it was the first year for this engine and, as the year models progressed, so did the changes and updates.
Engine removal can be handled in either of two different ways. Because of the body style change (along with changes in engine design), removal of this engine can be challenging. Some technicians prefer to raise the cab to gain access to the components, while others remove the engine to access the necessary fasteners and components in the traditional fashion. While there are pros and cons to each process, I prefer leaving the cab in place. The biggest reason is so the body is not scratched or damaged in any way. There have been many complaints about damage resulting from lifting the cab, so why take the chance?
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In order to remove the engine, you need basic hand tools along with a few specialty tools.
The best advice is to take your time and keep track of components as they are removed from the vehicle. The best strategy is to place the components in the order they are removed—in the bed of the truck or in a separate clean area. This helps when it is time for reinstallation.
Before the engine is removed from the chassis, I try to remove as many external components as possible. This includes the components on the top of the engine down to the intake manifold, along with all accessories on the front of the engine down to the front cover. This way, all bolt-on accessories are removed. Final removal of the engine from the chassis then consists of hoisting the long block up and out of the engine compartment.
This method also helps to shed some weight because just the long block weighs around 900 pounds. All of the accessories have to come off anyway, so when the engine is removed it can be placed on an engine stand (refer to Chapter 2 for more detailed information).
The engine bay of 6.0-equipped trucks is a little more cramped than in those trucks equipped with the 7.3-liter. I promise you that some components will be a challenge to remove, but it can be accomplished.
Before you get started, remove the battery cables and battery, and drain the antifreeze and oil.
Step-1: Remove Air Cleaner
Start by removing the air cleaner assembly. Once the filter is removed, remove the intake tube assembly going to the turbo inlet.
Step-2: Remove Reservoir
Remove the coolant hoses from the reservoir and remove the reservoir from the firewall by loosening two screws on top of the reservoir.
Step-3: Remove Wiring Harness (Professional Mechanic Tip)
Remove the wiring harness from under the reservoir bracket and along the cowl of the windshield by removing the “push-in” retainers (left and middle). Fold the plastic shield toward the windshield and secure it to the wiper arms by a zip strap. This gives additional room to access more components.
Step-4: Remove Intercooler Piping
Remove the intercooler piping from the turbo and both sides of the engine. The clamps can be removed with a 7/16-inch socket.
Step-5: Remove Turbo
Next, remove the turbo. From the turbine housing, you need to remove the up pipe clamp (1) and the down pipe flange (2) that is a part of the exhaust system. On the 2004 to 2007 models, there is one bolt that supports the turbine housing (3) to the turbo pedestal that needs to be removed. For the 2003 model, the turbo pedestal design is different and this bolt comes in from the side instead of from the top as shown here.
Step-6: Remove Turbo Bolts
On the driver’s side at the rear of the base of the turbo is a bolt that needs to be removed. Also remove the one on the passenger’s side.
Step-7: Remove Turbo
Now the turbo can be removed from the pedestal. Lift the turbo off the oil drain pipe at the base of the pedestal.
Step-8: Remove Pedestal Bolts
Remove the four bolts that attach the turbo pedestal to the engine block and remove the pedestal.
Step-9: Remove Engine Fan (Special Tool)
Before removing the drive belt, the engine fan must be loosened from the water pump. In order to do this you need a special tool to break the fan nut free. The special tool comes with two wrenches. Take the wrench that looks like a hook and hold the slotted water pump pulley while using the other wrench to loosen the fan nut. Remove the upper radiator hose if you need more room.
Step-10: Remove Drive Belt
Now the drive belt can be removed. This can be somewhat of a task when using conventional hand tools. This is what the belt tensioner looks like (left). In the end of the tensioner is a slot for a 1/2-inch ratchet. Insert a ratchet in the slot and place a piece of pipe over it for some additional leverage (middle). When pulling up on the ratchet in the tensioner, the drive belt begins to have some slack (bottom). At this time the belt can be removed from the alternator.
Step-11: Disconnect Wiring Harness
Disconnect the wiring harness from the alternator and remove the three bolts that fasten the alternator to the intake manifold.
At the mouth of the intake appears to be some kind of electronic device. This device was incorporated on early models with some having a throttle plate and others being without. The electronic throttle device is there but no throttle plate. Navistar originally used the electronic throttle to close off air coming into the intake manifold so the engine would siphon more exhaust gas coming in from the EGR valve. Later Navistar discontinued the throttle plate and just used the electronic device as a spacer. On 2005 to 2007 models, the intake manifold has a spacer and no electronic throttle device.
Step-12: Remove Fuel Filter Basket Lines
Remove the fuel supply and return lines from the secondary fuel filter basket.
Step-13: Remove Oil Filter Housing
At the base of the oil filter housing are four Torx bolts that hold the oil filter housing to the oil cooler. Remove the four bolts so the oil and fuel filter housing can be removed from the engine.
Step-14: Remove Stand Pipe
Once the oil filter housing is removed, the oil filter stand pipe needs to be removed. Remove the small Torx screw at the rear of the stand pipe and twist. The stand pipe simply lifts off the oil cooler base.
Front Drive Accessories and Radiator
Step-1: Remove Fan Shroud Bolts
Inside the inner fan shroud at the base of the front of the intake manifold are two bolts that need to be removed. These bolts hold the inner fan shroud to the intake manifold.
Step-2: Remove Air Conditioning Condenser
Remove the front grille and the headlight assembly to gain access to the cooling accessories in the front. At this time the air conditioning system needs to be evacuated. Once the refrigerant is evacuated from the air conditioning system, remove the condenser from the front of the vehicle.
Step-3: Remove Transmission Cooling Lines
If the vehicle is equipped with automatic transmission, remove the transmission cooling lines from the lower part of the radiator.
Step-4: Remove Cooler Bolts
Remove two bolts at the base of the transmission cooler that hold the cooler to the front of the lower radiator support.
Step-5: Remove Shields
On each side of the radiator at the top of the upper radiator support are two rubber shields that are held in place with plastic pins. Remove the rubber shields.
Step-6: Remove Intercooler
In order to remove the intercooler and radiator the upper radiator support has to be removed first.
Step-7: Remove Radiator
Remove the lower radiator hose and the two bolts in the top of the fan shroud from the radiator. Remove the radiator.
Step-8: Remove Outer Fan Shroud
Remove the outer fan shroud, which exposes the engine fan and the inner fan shroud.
Step-9: Remove Inner Fan Shroud Bolts
Earlier, the inner fan shroud bolts were removed from the top of the intake manifold. In order to remove the fan and inner fan shroud, two more bolts must be removed from the front of the engine on each side.
Step-10: Remove Inner Fan Shroud
The fan removes from the water pump pulley in a counterclockwise rotation. Remove the fan and the inner shroud to expose the front of the engine.
Step-11: Remove Air Conditioning Compressor
At this time, remove the air conditioning compressor from the engine. This is not easy! The bolts come up through the bottom of the compressor to the engine block. Once the compressor is removed, lay the refrigerant lines to the side and out of the way.
Step-12: Remove Lower Radiator Hose
Remove the lower radiator hose from the water pump.
Step-13: Remove Power Steering Pump (Professional Mechanic Tip)
To remove the power steering pump, remove the four bolts that hold the pump to the engine block, and set the pump to the side. There is no need to completely remove the pump from the vehicle engine compartment.
Step-1: Remove Battery Cable Support
Remove the battery cable support at the lower passengerside front of the engine block. In this picture, you can get an idea of how the air conditioning compressor is mounted to the engine.
Step-2: Remove Motor Mount Bolts
Remove the motor mount bolts inside the frame crossmember. There should be two on each side.
Step-3: Disconnect Fuel Lines
Disconnect the fuel lines from the engine using a special tool. The tool expands the spring inside the fitting that locks the fuel lines together. Fuel line disconnect tools can also be purchased at your local parts supplier.
Step-4: Remove Starter
Remove the block heater drop cord at the engine block and the battery cables at the starter. Remove the starter from the engine.
Step-5: Remove Up Pipe Assembly
Before removing the engine, you need to remove the exhaust up pipe assembly from each exhaust manifold and remove the up pipe assembly from the engine compartment.
Remove Transmission (Automatic)
On the driver’s side of the engine just above the oil pan is a window that is covered by a rubber plug in the engine block. This window is used to access the torque converter bolts. Remove the 14-mm torque converter bolts. After the torque converter bolts are removed, remove the transmission bolts also.
Step-1: Attach Engine Hoist
Engine support brackets are located at the front of the driver’s side of the engine and at the rear of the passenger’s side of the engine. Place a chain tightly through both support brackets and attach to an engine hoist. The engine can now be removed.
Step-2: Remove Engine
It is very important to remove the accessories from the top of the engine before trying to remove the engine. There is not a lot of room to raise the engine motor mounts from the crossmember, but there is just enough to get the oil pan across the crossmember.
Step-1: Remove Flywheel
In order to place the engine on an engine stand, the rear structure of the engine needs to be removed in order to remove the crankshaft. Start by removing the flywheel.
Step-2: Remove Flywheel Adapter (Important!)
In order to remove the rear structure of the engine, remove the flywheel adaptor at the rear of the crankshaft. This can be done with a three-finger puller (left). After removing the rear structure, you will notice that there are bolts in the rear of the crankshaft (right). DO NOT remove these bolts! This is the rear seal adaptor that is fitted to the crankshaft. If you remove these bolts and remove the rear seal adaptor, the crankshaft cannot be reused!
Injectors and Glow Plugs
Step-1: Remove Valve Covers
Now the valve covers can be removed. Make sure to mark the valve cover as to where the bolts and studs are located. I usually scribe the valve covers with small lines.
Step-2: Remove Oil Rails
Next, the high-pressure oil rails can be removed. This style of rail is for the 2003 model. Notice that the highpressure oil rail is fed by a braided line (above). The braided line needs to be unlocked and removed in order to remove the oil rail. There is a special tool for this also. If you do not have this special tool, the highpressure oil line can be removed by using a screw driver to push down on the locking spring (left).
Step-3: Remove Injector Connectors (Special Tool)
Before removing the rocker boxes, you need to remove the injector connectors for each injector that passes through the rocker box. There is a special tool that collapses the locks of the injector connectors. Once the locks of the connectors are compressed by the special tool, push the connector through the rocker box. The special tool (PN 6766) is made by OTC.
Step-4: Remove Injector Hold-Down
Using a number-40 Torx bit socket, remove the injector hold-down from the cylinder head so the injectors can be removed.
Step-5: Remove Glow Plug Harness
Remove the glow plug harness from the rocker box.
Step-6: Remove Glow Plugs
Once the glow plug harness is removed, the glow plugs can be removed from the cylinder head.
Step-1: Remove Cylinder Head Bolts
The rocker boxes are held by the cylinder head bolts. Remove the cylinder head bolts so the rocker boxes can be removed. The cylinder head does not come off at this time because there are smaller bolts at the top of the cylinder head that need to be removed first.
Step-2: Remove Exhaust Manifolds
Remove the exhaust manifolds from the cylinder heads.
Step-3: Remove Cylinder Head
In the top of the cylinder head between the intake ports are small bolts that fasten the cylinder head to the block. Remove these bolts so the cylinder head can be removed (left). With the cylinder head removed, you can see the amount of damage to the engine. For some unknown reason, the engine dropped both of the exhaust valves causing catastrophic damage (middle and bottom).
Disassemble Reciprocating Assembly
Step-1: Remove Oil Pan Bolts
Remove the bolts that support the oil pan to the engine block.
Step-2: Remove Oil Pan
The upper oil pan is really an adaptor used to fit the engine with a larger oil pan. Because a wider oil pan would be needed for oil capacity, an adaptor is used between the engine block and oil pan (left). Remove the upper oil pan and the oil pump pick-up tube from the bottom of the engine (right).
Step-3: Remove Pistons and Connecting Rods (Documentation Required)
Remove the pistons and connecting rods. Make sure to stamp the connecting rod and the cap to the corresponding cylinder it belongs to. At this time also remove the lifters by removing the lifter holddown assembly. Each lifter hold-down supports four lifters.
Step-4: Remove Bed Plate
Rotate the engine on the stand so that the crankshaft faces upward. Remove the bed plate, which is the main webbing of the engine that supports the crankshaft and bearings.
Step-5: Prep for Machining
Now the camshaft and the rest of the accessories such as the high-pressure oil pump, high-pressure oil lines (“branches” in the rear of the engine), and oil cooler can be prepped for machining.
Written by Bob McDonald and Republished with Permission of CarTech Inc