Identifying which route to take with your Ford is exciting and very important. The approach of restoration makes your car a blank canvas; you pick its future and level of restoration. My love for the 1960–1964 Fords runs so deep that I don’t have a favorite type of restoration; I enjoy them all. Four-door drivers to R-code rotisseries, convertible tops to wagons, they all make me excited.
As you plan your car’s future, think through each level of possible restoration. Each level has different costs, resources, and time involved. Moreover, the use of the car may change. Do you enjoy hopping in the car with the little ones to go for ice cream or using it generally? That may seem like a great idea, but is it really an option when you are done with a $50,000 restoration? Will you really park that frame-off restoration in the shopping center parking lot? On the other hand, will you be happy with the daily driver? Picking your route isn’t just picking the level of restoration. It’s picking the lifestyle you will have with this car in your life. In many cases, this decision may be shared with you and your family.
Buried in a barn, used as a storage shelf, and surrounded by random items, this 1962 Galaxie hardtop will soon be brought back to life. It has rust and hasn’t moved in decades, but it’s all there and is worth spending the time and money on a restoration.
Your decision needs to be your decision. Family and friends can be an element of persuasion for your build route, but at the end of the day it’s your budget and time. Will building this car bring you closer to your family or take time away from your family? I hope that it helps bring everyone closer. The time spent and budget allowed need to be seriously considered going into this project.
This Tech Tip is from the full book, FULL SIZE FORD RESTORATION: 1960 – 1964. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE
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Daily Driver
A daily driver is an excellent entry-level way to get into the classic car hobby. This is a nice car that can be used for daily use; driving it to work, driving around town, or maybe letting your kid drive it now and then. At this level the car may have a dull finish or some rips in the seat. Maybe the headliner is missing and the engine is covered in grease. The neat thing about a daily driver is that you can drive and use it while you make it nicer. I always try to have a daily driver Galaxie in my fleet; something that runs well, looks okay, is safe but yet needs work. The car can be driven and as you get to know it better, you learn what needs to be done to make it better. This is the lightest on the bank account but it can still deliver lots of fun.
A daily driver must be safe and reliable. This 1960 features all new suspension, brakes, stainless dual exhaust, and a freshly tuned-up 292 Y-block. It’s reliable, and the owner can slowly restore the car as he uses it.
This 1961 Starliner is an example of a concours-correct restoration. There are no flaws to be found in the paint, trim, or interior. You will find all high-performance specific detail, such as starter cable and front brake line, to be in their correct positions. These are details to be found on a concours-correct car.
Pro-touring or street machine, it’s really whatever you want it to be. This 1960 Starliner packs FE power, big wheels, big brakes, comfort, and reliability.
A daily driver is one that doesn’t require you to look out of the restaurant window every 15 minutes to make sure no one is parked too close. Even the most stripped, low-powered versions of early Galaxies and full-size Fords make great daily drivers. I drove a Chestnut 1962 Galaxie 292 2-speed as a daily driver for a few years. In and out of Pittsburgh rush hour traffic, the old car never had an issue. Sometimes a daily driver may be the most affordable yet the most mechanically sound level of restoration. Driving something daily means you must be on top of the upkeep, maintenance, and safety of the car.
The actual process of restoring a daily driver can be determined by how the car was bought. A solid car that just needs freshening may only need a little time and a small pool of money. If the car has issues inside and out, it may take just as long as doing a full restoration of a show-quality car. It is hoped that, if a budgeted driver–quality restoration is underway; it is only a partial restoration.
If the intent is a driver-level car, another thing to consider is insurance and registration. Many areas have restrictions on registration of a classic or antique car. It is also important to understand when and how the car can be used as advised by your insurance company. Most locations and insurances allow the cars to be used as daily drivers, if registered and insured properly.
Concours Correct
This level of restoration takes your car to the same condition, feel, and look that it had in the showroom when it was new. The intent of a concours restoration is to win honors in its class at a judged event. At a concours level, rarely is the car driven. When it is driven, extreme care is taken. Any transportation, storage, and even car shows need to be given much thought. Anything to compromise this car would be detrimental to its concours condition. This work-of-art restoration starts with a complete disassembly with every nut and bolt removed. A frame-off restoration is then completed; the body ends up on a 360-degree rotisserie so the underside can be as perfect as the top side. The frame is painted or powder coated until it’s perfect. Bodywork becomes more about metal perfection, as minimal filler is used and parts on the car that can’t be restored are replaced with NOS items. More than likely, this car has no upgrades such as disc brakes or radial tires. This level restoration can easily be in the six-figure range and is not completed by a novice. That doesn’t mean a novice cannot be part of a perfect car build.
Although an unrestored original 19631 ⁄2 Galaxie XL from California, it’s close to perfect with upgrades such as hardened valveseats, new radials, and a lot of detail work. Detail work alone can be as tedious as restoration work.
Built on Halloween 1963, this Raven Black and Wimbledon white 1964 Galaxie 500 can be found at your local car cruise or hauling the kids around. Although in nice condition, this car can still be used and enjoyed by the family.
A fast FE-powered station wagon with drag race trim, this full-size 1964 station wagon has been built for the track
With a car of this level, you have various venues around the country for judging and showing it. The good news is that the full-size 1960–1964 Fords are simply stunning and not as common as other models or brands. Attention is almost guaranteed.
A showroom concours-correct-level restoration can take years upon years of work. If the car is purchased correctly, the work may end up being easier than anticipated. In many cases I have picked up started restorations that could be considered basket cases. The good news with some of them was that a lot of the difficult work had already been completed correctly. Although this usually doesn’t happen, it is possible.
Transporting such a car needs to be thought about as well. Ideally someone purchasing a car of this stature should own an enclosed trailer and a tow rig. If these items were not already owned, purchasing them just to transport the car would be a significant expense.
Pro-Touring/Street Machine
Unlike a concours-correct restoration with an exact duplication of factory specification, there is no exact or perfect way to do a street or pro-touring machine. This car is made to be competitive at the track, and on the street it’s a “driver’s machine.” These cars are built with the intent of performance and function. Improved and upgraded suspension, brakes, wheels, drivetrain, and interior comfort make your full-size Ford drive like a modern sports car. Many pro-touring cars also have exterior and visual modifications such as carbon fiber, fiberglass, and reworked body panels. Since there is no one way to build a pro-touring car, that could help add fun to the build. One thing is for sure with a functioning pro-touring car: These machines look good, and stop, handle, and go well.
A pro-touring car is really a blank slate waiting for your personal touch. Any aftermarket upgrades can be installed to meet your goals and the car’s needs. This type of build is really good for someone with fabrication skills or resources. Usually a one-off example of a car comes from such a build. Someone trying to circulate their name or work into the public eye may build one of these cars to be competitive and look the part.
This Tech Tip is from the full book, FULL SIZE FORD RESTORATION: 1960 – 1964. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE
SHARE THIS ARTICLE: Please feel free to share this post on Facebook / Twitter / Google+ or any automotive Forums or blogs you read. You can use the social sharing buttons to the left, or copy and paste the website link: https://www.diyford.com/choosing-the-right-resotration-level/
Show Car
Although not at the level of a concours, this would come very close. A show car is an award-winning vehicle that is rarely driven but still could be driven to a local show. If the show is a long distance, maybe the car is trailered to the event. It would take a good eye to tell this car is not concours. A show car is still considered a true or original car, but it may have some differences or things about it that are not perfect. At this level, your car should still be one of the nicer cars at your local car cruise and should also attract attention at national events.
At the show car level, a full restoration would still be a significant undertaking. You may choose to build a show car rather than a concours-correct machine with the intent of actually driving the car. A show car may not be one you have done a full restoration on. Many cars start out having some good traits and some that need attention. For example, a car that has close to perfect paint may not be a candidate for a full restoration. Original paint is only original once. I have had original paint cars in my shop that need almost everything but paint. Creating a show car may come from a full restoration or just a freshening up.
With around 700 hp, this car is functionally fast and yet restored nicely. It’s a show car that isn’t set back to original condition yet is close to perfect in many ways!
Weekend Cruiser
At this level, you have a car that is very nice and stands out. Although it may not be perfect, it’s still a nice car that people enjoy looking at. Since it is driven, there may be upgrades such as radial tires, dual master cylinder, and added seatbelts (if not included from the factory). A weekend cruiser may have a different engine. For example, maybe the car came with a 352 and needed a new engine. There may be a 390 in its place. This is perfectly acceptable as you may not be worried about date codes or authenticity. The goal is a nice car that doesn’t need to be trailered. These can be fun projects as they are family friendly. It’s a nice car but you shouldn’t be afraid to load up the family to go for a drive. This car could be parade worthy and yet still acceptable to drive for a night out on the town without worrying. There is something to be said for a car that looks great, drives great, and is able to be enjoyed and used.
In many cases a weekend cruiser receives just as much respect as a higher-end full restoration. When a car looks good, is taken care of, and is driven, people take notice. The goal of these cars is to actually use them. This is why a weekend cruiser is a great fit for many.
Race Car
This type of restoration can go so many ways. I have seen early 1960s Fords restored to a nice condition and set up as race cars. Just because a car is made to be competitive doesn’t mean that it has to be covered in stickers. Many competitive high-horsepower engines can be placed right into a fully restored car. With an FE option and a 9-inch rear-end, 1960–1964 full-size Fords already have a great start to becoming race cars. These cars have a racing heritage so turning one into a race car is not out of the norm. With events such as the FE Race and Reunion, it’s not difficult to find a full-size flyer beating up the tarmac. This is not to say a small-block or a Y-block car can’t do the same. Very high-horsepower small-blocks and Y-blocks are around. Choosing a drag race car, an oval race car, or even a drifting car is all about your preference. There are many differences between a car that goes in a straight line and a car that turns at a racetrack. Both routes take lots of power, safety equipment, upgraded suspension, good brakes, and crafty ways of shedding pounds.
Expenditures can far surpass other levels of builds, depending on your approach. The level of performance desired will determine if you will be spending tens of thousands of dollars on long-blocks and thousands on brakes. High-level performance builds can very easily multiply many times over what other builds may cost.
I am currently building a 427 FE Country Sedan, so I will have many expenses. Many things that you may not think about with a regular restoration are needed during a race car build. Every functional area of a race car needs to be upgraded and safe for your build to be successful. Budgeting and planning are very important with a race car, as each part needs to be bigger and stronger. Just about everything will be upgraded. Even a simple item such as a torque converter or a clutch goes from being a small purchase item to something that is pretty heavy on the budget.
There is something special about seeing a straight shiny body with a really powerful sounding engine. These cars can be real showstoppers if put together correctly. If a race car is in your sights and budget, be prepared to attract attention from all over. Not only the completed car, but also the build will attract a lot of attention. Race cars, and especially Galaxie race cars, attract curiosity!
The Key to a Successful Build
I almost didn’t put this section in the book due to how subjective it is. After seeing so many people jump into projects and take on restorations, I know what works and what fails. Beyond budgets and space, success is determined by your approach. If you are taking on a restoration with the intent of just getting it done and hoping the work won’t be difficult, you will fail. If you take on the work with the intent of learning, becoming good at something, and spending time with family and friends, you will succeed. The best people involved in the hobby do great work because they love to show off their skills and approaches. This is relevant for those who are novices or doing automotive restoration as a career, although a full restoration shop has a different approach to getting things done successfully.
Choosing the level of restoration should be based on your budget and intent. Choosing your car’s path of restoration should start early and not change directions (you hope), unless the change is absolutely necessary. There could be unforeseen things that change your path, such as surprise damages, rust issues, or loss of budget. No matter what happens, it is important to stick with the car. It can be expensive and heartbreaking if you change directions too many times. Parts for one build may not suit taking another route with the car.
An example of this is a friend’s Galaxie. Its restoration started out and was slated as a driver-quality build. From there it was decided that it should be a 500-hp street car, which shifted to an approach as a show car. With that said, many of the go-fast parts now do not work and need to be sold at a discount. Lots of time and money were lost due to these changes. There are too many basket cases and lost causes out there. Be in it for your enjoyment, your family’s fun, and the love of the car. Regardless of the level of restoration, it should be a fun and fulfilling task. There is no sense in pursuing a hobby that brings stress or anguish.
No matter what level of restoration you choose, be sure to have fun with the build. Although this is a serious endeavor in terms of time, money, and safety, the bottom line must be fun. Even if this is turning your passion and hobby into a business, make restoration enjoyable by being true to yourself about the time, resources, and money that need to be spent on the car. Always have fun.
A Starliner is easy to pick out with its unique roofline. Starliners are great candidates for show car restorations.
Written by Colin Kleer and republished with permission of CarTech Inc
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