Along with all the upgrades to the rest of the Mustang for the 1994 model year, the brakes were also improved. Four-wheel disc brakes were now standard on every model – rear drum brakes were gone. ABS also became optional on all Mustangs beginning in ’94. PBR two-piston front calipers, similar to the ones used by GM on the F-bodies and Corvettes were introduced on the Cobra, along with larger 13-inch front discs.
This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, HIGH PERF MUSTANG BUILDER’S GUIDE: 1994-2004. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
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All of this made a great improvement to a car that already had plenty of acceleration, but lacked in the braking department when compared with the Camaro/Firebird of the day. Things only improved with the 2000 Cobra R, which came with four-piston Brembo front brakes, and even carbon-fiber brake ducts, standard from the factory. That’s wonderful stuff, but for those of us without an R model, where should we begin to improve our brakes?
These glowing front rotors are a testament to how much heat is generated during braking. Street circuits like Trois Rivieres are particularly hard on brakes, with very little time between corners and no air movement on the course itself.
Brake Fluid
The easiest brake improvement is also the least expensive. Changing your brake fluid every 24 months on an everyday street car enhances braking performance. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means that it has an affinity for water. A typical DOT 3 brake fluid, found in most cars, begins life with a boiling point around 400 degrees F. After only 24 months, water absorbed into the brake fluid can lower the boiling point over 100 degrees! The brakes are susceptible to fade as the fluid boils in the caliper, especially if the brakes are used two or three times in short succession.
The moisture absorbed into the brake fluid also causes premature corrosion in the brake system, leading to early replacement of master cylinders and calipers. Some lube shops and garages are now testing brake fluid with electronic testers to determine the amount of water absorbed and the actual boiling point of the fluid in some cases. While this is all well and good, I prefer to just change fluid based on time and usage. Consider brake fluid to be like some of the food in your refrigerator, you know, the stuff with a “best before” date on it. The “best before” date on your brake fluid is 24 months from the date you drove your new car off the dealer’s lot. If your Mustang is second hand, don’t even think about it – just change it. Since this usually requires two people, just consider it a bonding opportunity with that special someone in your life. Obviously, if you use your Mustang for open track events like SVTOA events, or weekend drag racing, changing your brake fluid should become a more frequent event. Open-track driving demands that brake fluid be changed a week or two before the event, and bled after the event as well.
DOT 4 Brake Fluid is a good choice for a street-driven Mustang. Castrol CMA and Valvoline Synpower are two commonly available brands.
Weekend drag racers should change the fluid at the beginning of every season, and then bleed the brakes once a week to once a month depending on speeds achieved and number of passes per weekend. Road racers already know all about brake fluid; that’s why you see them bleeding the brakes virtually every time the car comes off the track, between practice, qualifying, and race sessions. Even the best fluid available can have localized boiling in some areas, and if you need a consistent, hard brake pedal, constant bleeding is required.
For open track and road racing, you want a brake fluid that can stand up to some heat. This Motul Racing brake fluid has a 600 degrees F dry boiling point.
Different types of driving require different types of brake fluid. DOT 3 brake fluid is what your Mustang came with from Ford and the type most garages use to top up or change fluid. A typical DOT 3 brake fluid has a dry boiling point of 400 degrees F. The minimum level of brake fluid I recommend is DOT 4 fluid. A quality DOT 4 brake fluid has a dry boiling point of 500 degrees F, and is readily available at auto parts stores and even Wal-Mart. Castrol LMA and Valvoline Synpower are two commonly available brands. DOT 4 fluid is fine for everyday cars, weekend drag racers, and the once-a-year open-track driver. Pro drag racers and open-track warriors (you know who you are), you guys and gals need something better. Motul 600F is my preferred fluid for this middle level of performance. It has a 600-degree-F dry boiling point, and it’s reasonably priced at around $18 a pint. You need to find a performance outlet or mail order supply house for performance brake fluid, as you are not likely to find it at the average auto parts store. Other good brands in this range are Wilwood Hi-Temp 570 F brake fluid and AP Racing 550 F brake fluid.
This Tilton brake bleeding kit contains two bleeder bottles with hoses to attach to the brake bleeder nipples.
Brake bleeding is usually a two-person job: one in the car, and one outside to loosen and tighten the bleeder screw.
Professional road racers use Castrol SRF brake fluid. It costs $70 a quart, which is a lot of money by anyone’s standards. But as with most things in life, you get what you pay for, and it’s the best racing brake fluid available, period. It has a higher boiling point, at 660 degrees F, and works the best of any fluid in an extreme racing environment.
People ask, “What about DOT 5 silicone brake fluid, isn’t it better?” The answer is yes, and no. DOT 5 fluid does not absorb water like a conventional fluid. Unfortunately, it also has a relatively low boiling point, which renders it useless for performance enthusiasts. It’s also incompatible with other types of brake fluid, requiring a complete system flush. The best application for DOT 5 is for museum cars, which are seldom driven, and then only at moderate speeds.
So, now we know which type of fluid is appropriate for our needs, and next we need some equipment to help us bleed the brakes properly. A brake-bleeding bottle is nothing more than a clear container with a piece of transparent hose that slips over the brake-bleeding nipple on the caliper. Tilton makes a dandy brake bleeding kit with two bottles and hoses, or you can make your own for next to nothing. Just take an old Gatorade bottle, cut a hole in the top, and get some clear nylon tubing from the hardware store. Just check that the plastic used to make the bottle won’t dissolve when exposed to brake fluid by pouring a tiny bit of brake fluid in the container. Place the end of the tube over the bleeder nipple and the old brake fluid collects in the bottle. The clear tubing allows us to see when the old dark fluid is gone, and the new fluid has reached the bleeder. In a road-race car, watch the tubing for bubbles in the fluid, which is a sign of boiling fluid. Once all the bubbles have disappeared in the fluid traveling through the line, the boiled fluid has passed.
Brake bleeding is best accomplished with the assistance of another person. One person sits in the car and operates the brake pedal, while the second person operates the bleeder screw. Make sure the master cylinder reservoir is full, and then pump the brake pedal three or four times and hold. The person at the caliper then opens the bleeder screw, allowing the old fluid to travel out through the clear line into the bottle. Once the pedal has reached the floor, the bleeder screw is tightened. This process is repeated several times at each corner, filling the reservoir as required, until new fluid has reached each corner of the car.
Solo-bleed screws allow one person to bleed the brakes by themselves. A spring-loaded check valve releases the fluid from the brake system and then reseals, preventing air from entering the brake system.
Do not allow the master cylinder reservoir to get completely empty (keep filling it with new fluid). Air gets sucked into the lines, requiring you to start the process all over again. The brakes should be bled in the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front, and left front (from the furthest away from the master cylinder to nearest). If you don’t have anyone to help you do this, another option is to install solo bleeders. These are replacement caliper bleed screws with a built-in check valve. This allows one person to bleed the brakes by themselves, the only disadvantage being that you cannot see the quality of the expelled fluid when doing this by yourself.
Brake Lines
Replacing the stock flex lines is another inexpensive brake upgrade. The original rubber flex lines expand slightly under the enormous brake pressure (1000 psi) exerted while braking hard. Braided stainless flex lines are available from aftermarket manufacturers such as Goodridge, Earl’s, and Russell. These lines feature a Teflon inner liner combined with an abrasion-resistant stainless braided outer sheath. The Teflon does not expand under pressure like the original rubber line, creating a firmer, more consistent brake pedal.
Pre-made stainless flex lines are available for all SN95 Mustang front flex lines and some rear flex lines. With quite a few versions of rear flex lines in the various years and models, not all rear applications are available. In the event you need rear flex lines and none exist, fear not, for bulk line and fittings can be purchased, and custom lines fabricated. This is not a job for an inexperienced person. If you have not done this before, take your car to an experienced race shop and have them do it for you.
Braided stainless flex lines resist expanding under pressure, improving brake pedal feel.
Brake Pads
Changing the brake-pad compound on your Mustang can dramatically change its braking characteristics. Your original brake-pad compound was formulated to provide several different attributes. The pad material obviously had to stop the car, but additionally, the car manufacturer did not want brake squeal, or too much brake dust, which makes the wheels look nasty. The original brake pads also needed to be durable, lasting in excess of 60,000 miles for an average driver. Changing the brake pads to a performance-oriented compound improves certain aspects of braking performance, but you give some things up as well. A performance brake pad exhibits improved fade resistance and offers a higher coefficient of friction, resulting in shorter stopping distances. However, a high-performance street pad generally creates more brake dust than a standard pad, and a street/track brake pad often squeals when used on the street. Don’t say I didn’t warn you!
One thing seldom talked about when discussing brake upgrades is the fact that an upgraded brake system doesn’t do much good if we exceed the capability of the tires. Once the brakes have locked the tire up, the car is not going to slow down any quicker. The amount of brake force that can be applied to any given tire is directly proportional to the amount of grip available to the tire. A performance tire that has a larger contact patch with the road surface and is manufactured with a stickier compound can absorb a higher braking force without losing grip with the road surface. So don’t put a super-duper brake upgrade on your Mustang with the stock all-season tires and expect it to perform much better. If your tires are the limiting factor, upgrade them first.
In general, Cobras came from the factory with pretty decent brakes. Even with a tire upgrade, the brakes are up to the task for most track events. The ’94-’98 V-6 and GT Mustangs on the other hand, do not have a surplus in the braking department. One hard stop from 100 mph is about all their braking systems can handle. The ’99-2004 GTs were endowed with a larger-diameter rotor and an improved caliper design, which was a great improvement.
The 2003-’04 Cobra also came with underpowered brakes. We have a number of clients who open-track the late-model supercharged Cobra, and the stock brake pads are only good for three or four laps at a fast track like Mosport or Watkins Glen before pad fade sets in. Part of this is due to the fact that the cars are fairly fast right from the factory, and thus the entry speeds into the corners are quite high. They also have a lot of weight on the front end of the car and have minimal airflow to cool the brakes. Again, changing to a brake pad with a more aggressive compound is a good start.
Hawk Performance makes a line of brake pads with an assortment of compounds designed to cover a wide array of applications. Hawk HP Street pads are great for the Mustang enthusiast who wants a better-quality brake pad than the original, that doesn’t create brake squeal, and is good for the occasional autocross or open-track event. The HP Plus brake pad is a dual-purpose brake pad for the enthusiast who drives the car on the street, but needs a brake pad to use at open-track events with superior performance and fade resistance. Hawk also has several motorsport compounds to choose from as well. Motorsport compound brake pads should never be used on the street. A true-race compound brake pad requires several brake applications to get the pad compound hot enough to actually work properly. This is not what you want on the street. You need a brake pad that works immediately at peak performance – even cold. Satisfied Brakes produces another excellent range of brake pads. They offer their Gransport range of brake pads, which encompass everything from performance street to endurance race compounds. Satisfied Gransport brake pads come standard with StopTech brake upgrades.
StopTech brake upgrade kits include 4-piston brake calipers, slotted 13-inch rotors, aluminum brake hats, high-performance brake pads, and stainless brake lines. (Photo courtesy StopTech)
If you install a new set of performance brake pads in your Mustang, don’t forget to bed the pads in. During the manufacturing process, the brake pad material has binders added, which hold the solid particles together until the brake pads are completed. These binders contain oils that evaporate when the brake pads are used initially. When these oils come to the surface, a condition known as green fade occurs. Green fade, unlike regular pad fade, occurs only during break-in and does not occur again. However, if the pads are not allowed to cool down to ambient temperature after green fade occurs, they will never perform properly.
The correct way to bed pads in is to drive the car at a 50 to 60 mph speed and brake down to about 10 mph several times in succession. After doing this six to ten times, the brakes begin to fade somewhat. This is the green fade, and the car should be parked and allowed to cool down for at least an hour. All performance brake pads, whether street or race compound, should be broken in the same way. Some manufacturers such as Performance Friction offer racing brake pads that have been broken in on a brake dynamometer, saving the race teams the time and expense of bedding in brake pads for races. This is also useful during times when it rains all weekend at the track, because you can’t break in pads when it’s wet outside. One note here about mixing and matching brake compounds: sometimes we can optimize the overall braking in a Mustang by using different compounds on the front and rear calipers. Just remember that the front brakes do 75 percent of the work, and we don’t want the rear brakes to start slowing the car sooner or have a higher brake torque than the fronts, so use the more aggressive compound up front.
This cutaway drawing of a Satisfied Gransport brake pad illustrates the backing plate, pad material bonded to the plate, and the thermal barrier, which reduces the amount of heat transferred into the brake caliper. (Photo courtesy Satisfied)
Brake Rotors
The more aggressive your brake pads are, the quicker the rotors are going to wear. Cast iron is used in brake rotors because it is cheap, long-wearing, remains ductile, and is not prone to cracking through numerous heat cycles. The brake rotor design affects the performance of the brakes, particularly how effectively the rotor transmits the heat generated through braking. Air is drawn in through the center of the disc and expelled through the rotor vanes at the edge of the rotor. The more effective the rotor vane design is at transferring heat to the air passing through the vane, the better the overall brake performance is. The Mustang Cobra switched to Brembo-supplied rotors in 2001, and they are the best original-equipment rotor available on the Mustang (except the R models). Aftermarket replacement rotors tend to be built to a price point, so if performance is the objective, Brembo aftermarket rotors may be your best bet.
The cross-drilled and/or slotted rotors now popular in the aftermarket certainly look cool, but do they work? Yes, they do offer some performance benefit, mainly through offering a channel for worn pad material to escape. During heavy braking, a fire band exists between the brake pad and the rotor surface. As tremendous heat is generated, debris from the brake pad is sheared off and mixes with gasses formed in the semi-molten area between the rotor and the pad. The cross-drilled holes or slots in the rotor face form an avenue for the gasses and debris to escape. With no way to escape, this excess material would get trapped between the rotor and the pad, glazing the surface and creating a less-effective brake condition. Cross drilling looks sexy, but slotted rotors perform just as well, wiping the entire surface of the pad every time it passes, and they’re not prone to cracking like cross-drilled rotors. If you want track performance without having to replace rotors all the time, go for the slots. If you want the sexy look on the street, cross drilling is the way to go.
Cryogenically treated brake rotors are becoming more popular with the open-track and road-racing set in the last few years. Taking the rotors down to 300 degrees F below zero and slowly bringing them back up to ambient temperature changes the molecular structure of cast iron and steel, imparting a toughness to it that improves the wear characteristics.
Cryo-treating was first used in the machine tool industry, as high-speed CNC mills were tearing up tool bits at an alarming rate. Cryo-treated brake rotors are known to last two or three times as long as standard rotors. The small additional cost is more than offset by the savings for open track and road-race users.
Heat’s impact on calipers is less appreciated. Although aftermarket race calipers generally withstand several races without servicing, the production Cobra calipers, when used by top teams in three-hour endurance races, were pitched in the dumpster every weekend along with the rotors. The incredible heat actually annealed the calipers, destroying the heat treatment of the original aluminum casting. Once soft, the caliper was prone to flexing, and the effectiveness of the brake system was compromised.
Here’s a Cobra 13-inch rotor on left and a GT 11.65 inch rotor on right. They are partially cut away to show the different vane designs for cooling.
This StopTech rotor cutaway shows the directional vanes, designed to maximize heat dissipation. These aftermarket rotors are more thermally efficient than the OEM rotor. (Photo courtesy StopTech)
Finite element analysis software allows brake engineers to see the stress in the caliper during braking during the design process. The stiffer the caliper, the more consistent the braking.
Calipers and Rotors
Fortunately for the Mustang enthusiast, several good off-the-shelf brake systems for any SN95 car are available. Probably the easiest place to begin is the Cobra-based upgrade for the ’94-2004 Mustang GT. Ford Racing offers a front kit and a rear kit, both including production Cobra parts, allowing the owner to upgrade the front to 13-inch rotors, along with Cobra calipers and pads. The rear kit includes the 11.65-inch vented rotors, calipers, and all relevant hardware. These are very cost-effective upgrades for GT owners. It should be noted that the 2001 Mustang Bullitt and the 2003-’04 Mach 1 came with Cobra brakes, albeit with red painted calipers. The red calipers are also available through Ford Racing, for those who are so inclined. Upgrading the GT to Cobra calipers does require you to use 17-inch wheels for clearance.
This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, HIGH PERF MUSTANG BUILDER’S GUIDE: 1994-2004. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS BOOK HERE
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Brembo produced a special four-piston caliper for the 2000 Cobra R that bolts directly to the SN95 spindle without adapters. This racing brake system includes slotted Brembo rotors, competition style pads, and stainless flex lines. It’s available today through Ford Racing for a bit over $1,100 complete. For the money, this is an excellent brake upgrade for the Mustang, easily the best value for money on the market. You can get years of service on a dual-purpose, open-track, or club racer with this system. StopTech also makes a really good brake upgrade. It features 13-inch rotors, all the goodies included, for a couple of grand. Brembo makes a 14-inch brake upgrade with two-piece rotors, four-piston calipers, priced in the mid $3,000 range.
The 2000 Mustang Cobra R brake package (by Brembo) is available through Ford Racing. It’s a very good brake upgrade kit at a reasonable price.
A number of Grand Am Cup teams are using the Wilwood six-piston calipers, but Wilwood also has a less-expensive street performance system. The street 13-inch rotor systems come with staggered piston sizes to equalize pad wear, two-piece rotors, and pads. The competition system has titanium pistons for maximum protection against heat, and competition series rotors. All of these brake upgrades require 17-inch or larger wheels with clearance for the calipers. The Cobra R-style wheel, Steeda Ultralite, or equivalent is a good choice when installing these brakes. Wilwood also makes an upgraded rear brake system to complement their SL6 front system using the Dynalite calipers, a 12.19-inch rear rotor, and an integral parking brake assembly. Many times, simply upgrading the rear brakes with slotted rotors and pads will complement a front system upgrade.
Wilwood 6-piston calipers and 13.5-inch vented rotors are a preferred brake package on Grand Am Cup Mustangs. A matching rear kit with integral parking brake is available. (Photo courtesy Wilwood)
Brake Cooling
Anytime a Mustang is running on a track for an extended period of time, getting cool air to the eye of the brake rotor is going to improve brake performance and longevity. The 2000 Cobra R came from the factory with carbon-fiber brake ducts in place of the standard backing plates. The front spoiler ducts channeled the air through tubes to the brakes.
This system, or similar systems available from the aftermarket, works wonders. The ’03- ’04 Cobra has an ideal location next to the fog lamp to duct cold air through, and the bumper cover can be retrofitted to older models too. Failing that, aftermarket ducts are available to pick up the air just below the bumper cover and direct it to the brake duct. Brake duct kits for the Mustang are available through Sean Hyland Motorsport and Kenny Brown. Any serious open-track car should incorporate some duct system to help keep the brakes working efficiently.
Carbon fiber brake ducts were original equipment on 2000 Cobra R. Forcing cool air ducted from the front of the car, through the eye of the rotor, dramatically reduces brake rotor temperatures.
Brake duct hose must be wire or fabric reinforced and specifically designed to withstand temperatures up to 300 degrees F.
Drag Brakes
Drag racecars have their own unique requirements and challenges in the brake department. In addition to braking performance, weight is an issue – reducing front-end weight in particular. Another issue for drag racers is the front wheel size. Drag racers typically want to install a skinny 15 × 4-inch wheel on the front with a lightweight front-runner tire. These wheels do not fit an SN95 Mustang with Cobra-style brakes because the wheel interferes with the caliper. One inexpensive solution is to fit ’94-’98 Mustang GT calipers and rotors, which clear 15-inch wheels.
A more elegant solution is to install an aftermarket drag brake system such as the Aerospace drag brake kit. These kits include billet aluminum lightweight four-piston front calipers, lightweight rotors, and aluminum rotor hats. A similar system is also available from Aerospace for the rear brakes as well. You can lose 20 lbs or more installing a system like this. Although they’re adequate for drag racing, these lightweight systems do not have a big enough rotor to dissipate heat from successive stops, and should not be used on street-driven cars.
Another thing drag racers like to do is install a manual rack and pinion to eliminate the weight of a power steering system. On the ’96-up Mustangs, which utilize the power steering pump to provide brake system assist, another master cylinder must be installed to eliminate the hydro boost. A manual master cylinder kit includes a master cylinder and a billet adapter to connect the master to the firewall. The master cylinder pushrod must be modified in most cases, and the pedal ratio may need to be increased in order to have sufficient line pressure to slow the car properly. This is a job best left to a professional shop.
A manual master cylinder and adapter block are often used on Mustang drag cars with aftermarket brakes to eliminate the power brakes and reduce weight. This is also required when converting a ’96-up Mustang to a manual steering rack, since the power steering pump also supplies the hydroboost brake assist with hydraulic pressure.
Drag brake kits use very lightweight components, billet calipers, non-vented rotors, and aluminum rotor hats.
Brembo also offer their GT brake kit with two-piece floating 14-inch slotted and cross-drilled rotors for the Mustang. The larger 4-piston caliper requires 18-inch wheels for clearance.
Ducting air to cool the brakes can be done with a fabricated inlet riveted to the spoiler (above), or attached under the front valance. The 2003 Cobra front fascia (below) has a convenient unused air inlet that works fine for ducting air to the brakes. The Cobra fascia can be retrofitted on other models, as on this 2001 GT.
When installing custom brake packages, particularly on drag race and road-race cars, we often eliminate the stock proportioning valve from the system, which limits the pressure applied to the rear brakes. As the weight transfers forward during braking, the load on the rear tires becomes less, and if the rear brake pressure is too high, the rear brakes lock up. This is not a good situation. An adjustable proportioning valve is used on custom brake installations to allow the driver to manually adjust the rear brake pressure to the desired level. On a drag car, this adjustment can usually be made and then left alone unless some change is made to the chassis or brake system. On a road-race car, the driver may adjust the proportioning valve during the race to compensate for fuel load, tire wear, or changing track conditions. A proportioning valve is only used on the rear brakes to limit the amount of brake force; it cannot increase the brake force above the output from the master cylinder, which is a function of the bore diameter of the master cylinder and the pedal ratio. We always want the front brakes on our Mustangs to lock up before the rears – always – no matter what we use the car for. Locking up the rear brakes first is a sure fire way to go off the track backwards, which is not usually the best plan.
A brake proportioning valve reduces the line pressure to the rear brakes, allowing the driver to adjust the brake balance front-to-rear to suit conditions.
When you’re combining an aftermarket wheel with aftermarket brakes, fitment can be a leap of faith. Talk to some experienced installers to get some answers.
Roll Control
Roll control is simply an electric solenoid placed in the front brake system, actuated by a button near the driver. When at the drag strip, the driver applies the brakes, activates the roll control with a momentary switch, and releases the brake pedal. The driver can spin the rear tires, heating the slicks or drag radials to optimum temperature, while the front brakes hold the car in place.
This method creates less wear and tear than holding the brakes on all four corners and overpowering the rear brakes. Installing a roll control on an ABS-equipped SN95 Mustang requires two roll controls, one for each front brake line. They must be installed after the line exits the ABS block in the right front of the engine compartment. As with all serious brake work, this is a job best left to an experienced shop.
The standard rear discs on the SN95s may not look like much, but remember, most earlier Mustangs came with rear drums.
The ultimate brakes. Parachutes are used to slow racecars to a speed where the hydraulic brake can take over.
Parachutes
Well, parachutes are a supplemental brake system! Nothing says fast like a parachute hung on the back of your car. NHRA requires a parachute on any car capable of 150 mph in the quarter-mile. They are also extensively used in speed trials at places like Bonneville. A parachute system is designed to work for a specific speed range and type of use. The main chute can be deployed by a spring system, or fired off with a CO2 charge, and can be configured in many different ways. If a drag car or Bonneville car gets out of shape at speed, deploying the chute can be an effective method to get the car under control again, pulling back on the rear of the car and providing a stabilizing effect.
Once a racecar starts exceeding 200 mph on a regular basis, the parachute acts as a primary brake system, slowing the car to the point that the hydraulic brake system can operate. The lightweight brake systems used in drag cars are not going to work effectively at 200+ mph. If your project is fast enough to require a parachute, you need to contact the manufacturer for specific recommendations for your application.
Written by Sean Hyland and republished with permission of CarTech Inc
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