The Coyote’s induction system is easily the most advanced in Mustang history. It is a composite design that has become mainstream today because it is both lighter and a great heat insulator. It stays cool and keeps the intake charge cooler. It is also easier to manufacture.
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Induction design and tuning has changed considerably thanks to computer-aided design and a lot of midnight oil at Ford. The Coyote’s intake manifold, also known as a plenum, is single plane with long intake runners for a broad torque curve. These are long, 16.9-inch (430-mm), runners with gentle turns for improved flow. They are scrolled deep into the valley to allow for a lower hoodline. Because Ford has eliminated the coolant tube in the Modular engine’s valley, there’s more room for induction wizardry. The 80-mm throttle body is centered at the front of the engine on top. Another great evolution is a digital mass air sensor for extremes of fine-tuning as you drive.
The Coyote has traditional port injection because Ford engineers felt it didn’t need direct injection at that time. A lot of development work is yet to be done before Coyote receives direct injection. The Coyote’s cylinder head castings have a provision for direct injection, which tells you where Ford is headed with this engine. Ford just isn’t there yet, but look for the Coyote to get direct injection and even Ecoboost in time, perhaps by 2018–2019. The ultimate factory Coyote could be considered one with Ecoboost.
The Coyote is available with two basic types of induction packages: conventional single-plane long runner (2011–2014) and Charge Motion Control Valve (2015–2016) that allows you to change intake runner length via flapper valves, thereby improving idle and low-end performance quality. The factory Coyote induction system is an adequate performance manifold, especially with CMCV. However, optional factory and aftermarket manifolds are engineered to make it better. Edelbrock appears to be the front-runner with a new aftermarket intake manifold for the Coyote; other aftermarket companies are following suit.
Because there are two types of Coyote engines (2011–2014 and 2015–2016), there’s not much interchangeability. You can run 2015– 2016 heads on your 2011–2014, but you must be mindful of the broader intake port flange on the 2015–2016 cylinder head, which creates clearance issues with the 2011–2014 intake manifold. It does not fit out of the box. You can make minor modifications to the 2011–2014 to get this manifold to clear the flange.
The 2012–2013 BOSS 302 intake manifold/plenum, M-9424-M50BR, is a high-performance single-plane piece that you can bolt onto your Coyote in a day to net a real increase in power. It is also priced to sell at just under $500 at press time. You also need the larger Ford Performance Parts 90-mm throttle body for best results. This manifold rocks for a factory induction system and it’s a perfect fit because it was factory installed on the 2012–2013 BOSS 302 Mustang. If you want to take this modification all the way, opt for the BOSS 302 cylinder heads (no longer available from Ford Performance Parts, but still on the shelves elsewhere) or a CNC head-port job from Total Engine Airflow. Fit your CNC-ported heads with more aggressive cams with good streetability yet excellent road course manners. With the Ford Performance Parts BOSS 302 intake manifold you can expect up to a 61-hp increase. A professional street/ strip tune is also encouraged to make the most of these modifications.
What you get from the BOSS 302 induction is a higher power band. Low- to mid-range torque moves the power band higher. At high RPM is where the BOSS 302 intake manifold does its best work, pushing your Coyote into the 7,000- to 7,500-rpm range. This is easily the best all-around performance intake manifold for the Coyote. It provides excellent drivability for the daily commute and weekend getaway while providing outrageous performance when it’s time to get it on.
Although it is easy to compare the BOSS 302 manifold to the Cobra Jet, the two manifolds are not the same. Each manifold is engineered to perform differently. Your 5.0L Coyote’s stock manifold, as well as the BOSS 302 manifold, is designed to perform well at low- to mid-range RPM; however, the stock manifold chokes off airflow at high RPM, which limits power.
When you want peak power on the drag strip or even on a road race course at high RPM, the Ford Racing Cobra Jet intake manifold (M-9424-M50CJ) is designed to channel more air directly into your Coyote’s chambers with runners tuned for high-RPM peak power with no loss of torque. The torque factor makes the Cobra Jet manifold productive for road racing as well as drag racing.
The Ford Racing Performance Parts Cobra Jet manifold is a lightweight composite all-out racing induction system with short runners engineered for high-RPM operation. The Cobra Jet is in no way a street plenum and should never be viewed as one. Peak power rolls in around 7,750 rpm at wide-open throttle on a racetrack. Total intake volume is 635 cfm. The Cobra Jet manifold is designed for the 2011–2014 GT and 2012–2013 BOSS 302 engines.
Installation of the Ford Racing Cobra Jet Intake Manifold requires either the GT500 Throttle Body (M-9926-CJ65) or a Cobra Jet Throttle Body (M-9926-SCJ). You also want to use the Cobra Jet 5.0L Cold-air Intake Kit (M-9603-M50CJ), to work with the oval Cobra Jet/GT500 throttle body.
Intake manifold selection depends on how you intend to operate your Coyote most of the time. Choose the BOSS 302 for street/ strip and the Cobra Jet for racing. The aftermarket is faced with a huge challenge with the Ford 5.0L Ti-VCT engine: how to make it better than Ford has with better heads and induction. Thus far, Ford has come up with an engine that is virtually unbeatable in every respect. Some race shops have developed and are producing sheet-metal aluminum intake manifolds for the Coyote for professional drag racers. These tend to be custom-built pieces that have not made their way to mass production at this time.
Edelbrock Victor II
Edelbrock is the first aftermarket performance company to introduce a true high-performance intake manifold for the 2011–2014 and 2015–up Ford Ti-VCT Coyote 5.0L V-8 engine combines long-tapered crossover runners with a large plenum for incredible performance numbers. Its cast-aluminum construction (yes, cast aluminum) makes the Victor II ideal for nitrous, supercharged, and turbocharged applications. The Victor II is good for 1,500 to 7,500 rpm, making it one of the most versatile intake manifolds in history.
The Victor II manifold also includes provisions for all emissions equipment and reuses the stock fuel rail. Or, you can opt for an aftermarket billet fuel rail for an upgrade in appearance. The Victor II also features nitrous bosses for adding a direct port system for competition applications. This slightly lower design allows it to fit all 2011–2014 and 2015–up Mustang stock hoods and strut tower braces. Edelbrock’s engine dyno testing resulted in 27 more ft-lbs of torque over a common aftermarket plastic upgrade intake manifold and an additional 16 hp over a stock manifold.
You may opt for the base Coyote 80-mm throttle body from Ford or the optional 90-mm from Ford Performance Racing Parts. It is suggested you go with the larger 90-mm for best results. The Edelbrock Victor II is 50-state emissions legal.
GT350 5.2L Intake Manifold
Although this is the 5.2L GT350 intake manifold, you really need the cylinder heads that go along with it to get any real benefit. Moreover, you want to opt for the entire 5.2L engine package to get all of the benefits of Ford Performance Parts’ new increased-displacement Coyote. Because this manifold is fitted with CMCV, it is really not designed for 2011–2014 Coyote engines. Here’s what you get for your hard-earned money:
- GT350 intake manifold assembly with CMCV
- Requires GT350 87-mm throttle body
- Intake is tuned for 7,500-rpm peak power
- Fits 2015–2016 5.0L Coyote engines
Nitrous Oxide = Cheap Power?
Nitrous oxide technology dates back to at least World War II when it was used in classic war birds to help make large amounts of power on demand and at high altitudes. The use of nitrous oxide in racing has been commonplace for decades. Much of it began with the Pro 5.0 movement in the 1990s and has spread across drag racing in the years since. Nitrous is quick and easy bolt-on horsepower; however, you must know what you’re doing before making the investment. If you are careless or abusive with nitrous oxide it can cost you plenty, ranging from personal injury to complete and total engine destruction.
Summit Racing Equipment has available plenty of nitrous oxide systems for the 5.0L Ti-VCT Coyote. Should you opt for nitrous and, if so, why? Nitrous remains the easiest path to horsepower without having to knock an engine apart. You don’t have to increase or decrease compression, or swap cams and valvetrain parts. All you have to do is install the system and properly tune both the fuel and the ignition systems. However, you should be educated on how to operate nitrous oxide before getting started.
David Fuller of Summit Racing Equipment explains how nitrous oxide makes power in an engine: “The principle of nitrous oxide is simple: air and fuel plus ignition equals horsepower; therefore, more air and more fuel equals more horsepower. It’s the equation that nitrous systems manufacturers use to help produce incredible power gains (in some cases up to 400 extra ponies) in everything from sport compacts to dedicated race vehicles.”
David goes on to say, “Still, many performance enthusiasts don’t fully understand how nitrous systems make additional horsepower. More important, they don’t understand how to tune their nitrous system for optimal performance. Summit Racing Equipment sells nitrous kits and accessories from top nitrous system manufacturers like NOS, Nitrous Express, Zex, Edelbrock, Trick Flow Specialties, and Venom. A nitrous oxide system enhances this combustion process (and the resulting horsepower output) by altering the air/fuel mixture three ways.”
Dry Nitrous Systems
Summit Racing Equipment says that a dry nitrous system is generally the easiest way to add nitrous to a fuel-injected vehicle. Dry systems work with your existing fuel system to supply the needed fuel to make horsepower. Additional fuel is delivered in one of two ways. The first way is to “trick” the OEM fuel-injection system into supplying more fuel to the engine. In these cases, the nitrous system is designed to modify your factory computer’s fuel curve to get the necessary fuel delivered to your engine. A second way is to increase the fuel pressure to the injectors by applying nitrous pressure from the solenoid assembly when the system is activated.
Wet Nitrous Systems
Wet nitrous systems come with their own fuel components to introduce additional fuel to your intake system. Wet systems include a separate fuel solenoid and nozzle, which spray the fuel at the same location as the nitrous. In most carbureted applications, the fuel and nitrous is introduced just below the carburetor. In fuel-injected systems, the mixture is sprayed just ahead of the throttle body.
Wet nitrous systems mix nitrous and fuel at a common injector where both are sprayed into the intake port. American Muscle explains, “The wet nitrous kit mixes nitrous with the fuel directly. This mixture is then sprayed into the intake tube near the throttle body. Many Mustang tuners prefer the wet kit because it’s easier to deal with. After all, the PCM controls the air/fuel ratio. Normally, the tuner simply chooses how much timing to give the engine.
“Also, with a wet nitrous kit there is no need to upgrade your Mustang’s injectors. Because the nitrous is mixed directly with fuel, there is no need to upgrade the injectors as there is no need for additional fuel over what is regulated for any one given time. You also don’t run the risk of a failed sensor like the mass airflow sensor.” The downside to wet nitrous is that if it is not installed properly or it is poorly tuned, it results in a nitrous backfire/explosion, which can do significant damage.
A dry nitrous system is a standalone system that operates separately from the fuel system and is injected separately from the fuel. Dry nitrous is safer than wet and best for the beginner.
Direct-Port Nitrous Systems
The last type of nitrous system is the direct-port system. This system introduces the nitrous and fuel mixture directly into each engine cylinder. Generally, these systems inject nitrous and additional fuel together through a common nozzle. Because individual nozzles are placed above each cylinder, direct-port systems are the most accurate and most powerful. They have more tuning capabilities than other styles of nitrous systems because each nozzle can be adjusted to control the nitrous and fuel flow to the individual cylinders.
The drawback to direct-port nitrous systems is the complexity of the installation. They are typically the most complicated system to install because they require the intake manifold to be drilled and tapped to accommodate each nozzle. That’s why these systems are usually reserved for race vehicles.
Nitrous oxide is one of the more popular power adders for race vehicles and street rides alike. It’s generally affordable, easy to install, and delivers a power boost when you want it and normal engine operation when you don’t. The result is less stress on your engine, better overall drivability, and superior fuel economy over cylinder head porting, supercharging, and other power adders.
Although some refer to nitrous oxide or “squeeze” as free power, it is not. Anytime you can press a button and get 100 to 500 “free” horsepower at wide-open throttle you’re playing a game of Russian Roulette. If your electronic engine control isn’t in a proper state of tune for nitrous oxide operation, the damage you do to your engine can be permanent. This is why you must choose, install, and tune a nitrous oxide system to your engine’s best benefit. Too much nitrous and not enough fuel or perhaps too much timing and you destroy the engine in a nanosecond; it’s that simple.
If you intend to run large amounts of nitrous oxide, meaning anything beyond 100 to 150 hp, you need to design and build your Coyote for greater amounts of power. A stock Coyote handles a 100- to 150-hp shot of nitrous oxide and stays together. Anything beyond 100 to 150 hp calls for forged pistons, heavy-duty I- or H-beam rods, and more generous clearances. You need more generous clearances because, with nitrous, combustion temperatures go skyward and reciprocating mass grows accordingly.
A typical basic 100- to 150-shot nitrous system can net you anywhere from 90 to 130 hp and roughly 100 to 150 ft-lbs of torque depending on atmospheric conditions, bottle temperature, and your Coyote’s state of tune.
Manufacturers are making it easy to supercharge high-performance Fords these days. There are basically two types of supercharger systems available for the Coyote: positive displacement and centrifugal. Choice depends on what you want a supercharger to do and how you want it packaged. Positive displacement blowers are generally a drop-in replacement for the factory induction system and are located at the engine’s valley. Centrifugal blowers are mounted on the front of the engine and become part of the accessory drive system along with associated ducting. It can be debated endlessly which system is best for your Coyote engine. Much of it boils down to personal choice.
Vortech leads the pack when it comes to centrifugal blower technology for the Coyote. The centrifugal supercharger has long proven to be one of the most effective means of reaching increased power without making major engine modifications. You can bolt these guys on your Coyote and make quick power during a weekend. Power comes from compressing air before it enters combustion chambers. Pressurized air fills cylinder bores and mixes with atomized fuel. This results in improved cylinder filling, allowing more air and fuel to be burned in the combustion cycle, with dramatic increases in torque and horsepower.
Vortech centrifugal superchargers operate on fundamental and proven turbomachinery principles, first described by Euler’s turbomachinery equation, which was developed in the 18th Century. This principle relates the work imparted to a fluid by an impeller to the change in angular momentum of the fluid. Over the past century, the centrifugal compressor has evolved and found its way to become the most efficient and reliable means for delivering charged air at high pressures.
Advanced Compressor Stage
Vortech’s compressor stages have evolved considerably in more than 20 years of experience and thousands of production superchargers. All Vortech compressors incorporate sophisticated impeller designs, coupled to a parallel wall diffuser, with a progressive scroll, or volute exit stage, as air leaves the compressor. Impellers employ advanced aerodynamic features such as optimized inducer blading, splitters, and in some cases, exit rake and backsweep. Each of these elements depends on the particular pressure/flow objectives. Rather than a simple change of blower speed to effect different “models,” each Vortech supercharger is optimized aerodynamically so that best performance is attained for a specific vehicle application.
In order to effectively take advantage of impeller effort, flow must be efficiently diffused so that pressure rise can be generated with minimal flow losses. The diffuser is optimally matched to the impeller flow physics; many iterations are tested and verified until maximum efficiency is achieved with each supercharger design, in this case for the Coyote. Finally, a matched volute (manifold) effectively collects and diffuses further, resulting in additional pressure rise and improved performance.
Complete Vortech supercharger systems are available for manual transmission vehicles only at press time. Automatic transmission models are being developed. These blower systems for the Coyote are good for 605 hp and are 50-state smog legal. Complete, fully calibrated supercharging systems are available for the 2011–2016 5.0L Mustang GT, featuring the V-3 Si centrifugal supercharger with air-to-air charge cooler.
This complete, smog-legal system boosts the 2011–2014 Mustang GT to 605 hp and 473 ft-lbs torque with 7.5 to 8.5 psi from the V-3 supercharger at the factory redline. For 2015–2016, we’re talking 630 hp and 483 ft-lbs torque with 7.5 to 8.5 psi from the V-3 supercharger. Vortech’s 2011–2016 Mustang 5.0L Coyote GT Supercharging Systems are available as either a complete, fully calibrated bolt-on, or as a V-7 tuner kit for custom installations at up to 1,200 hp.
The new Mustang system uses Vortech’s V-3 Si supercharger. Continued development in Vortech’s lab resulted in the V-3 Si. The “i” stands for improved, with its new, patented oil control system and a state-of-the-art centrifugal compressor.
Centrifugal superchargers make more pressure and flow than a positive displacement–type blower and are more efficient.
Vortech V-3 Si Supercharger
Vortech is going to briefly walk you through the installation of its 2015–2016 Mustang GT Intercooled V-3 Si supercharger system. Although the 2015–2016 Mustang GT differs from the 2011–2014, installation is basically the same.
Vortech V-3 Si Supercharger Installation
This Vortech support bracket bolts directly to the engine first. Then come pulleys and spacers, along with the supercharger support bracket. (Photo Courtesy Christopher Campbell)
Here’s the support bracket, which bolts directly to the Vortech V-3 Si. Note the belt routing and pulley locations. The drive belt is routed through the two brackets to the supercharger drive pulley. (Photo Courtesy Christopher Campbell)
This is the Vortech 87-mm throttle body, which is factory calibrated and ready to go. All you have to do is plug, play, and tune. (Photo Courtesy Christopher Campbell)
Once injector plugs are disconnected, four 10-mm hex nuts hold the fuel rails to the intake. Remove these and the entire rail assembly with injectors comes out. (Photo Courtesy Christopher Campbell)
With Vortech boost comes the real need for more fuel. Stock Coyote injectors are 24 lb/hr. The V-3 Si calls for EV-14 47 lb/hr injectors along with professional dyno tuning. (Photo Courtesy Christopher Campbell)
The Vortech V-3 Si is installed at this time and the drive belt is looped around the pulley. Installation is simple. (Photo Courtesy Christopher Campbell)
Belt installation is tricky because it gets tight in there. The main thing is to be sure the belt routing is correct. Fortunately, belt tension is automatic once you have it on the pulleys. (Photo Courtesy Christopher Campbell)
The several air intake ducts are next. Begin at the throttle body and work your way outward. (Photo Courtesy Christopher Campbell)
This is the stock air cleaner housing with a K&N filter for improved filtration and airflow. The stock air cleaner works with the Vortech V-3 Si supercharger, seriously. You may also want to consider a BBK cold-air kit. (Photo Courtesy Christopher Campbell)
The mass air flow (MAF) sensor and duct are installed and connected as shown. Make sure all ducts are dovetailed into one another and void of leaks. (Photo Courtesy Christopher Campbell)
The air-to-air intercooler is easy to install once you have removed the front fascia, which is easy. It fits in front of the air conditioning condenser and radiator. (Photo Courtesy Christopher Campbell)
Ductwork from the intercooler installs as shown here, connecting to the Vortech V-3 Si blower. (Photo Courtesy Christopher Campbell)
More intercooler ductwork is shown here on the left-hand (driver) side. Vortech’s instructions make light work of this operation. Vortech provides you with all of the information you need to complete the installation. (Photo Courtesy Christopher Campbell)
On the right-hand (passenger) side is this discharge duct with bypass valve (also known as a wastegate), which vents excess pressure to keep boost safe. (Photo Courtesy Christopher Campbell)
This is the Vortech V-3 Si intake duct from the air cleaner and MAF duct. (Photo Courtesy Christopher Campbell)
These check valves are for evaporative emissions function and are tied to the Vortech V-3 Si system. They must be installed for proper function. (Photo Courtesy Christopher Campbell)
There are three speedy paths to power. One is compression ratio, another is nitrous oxide, and the other is boost via supercharging or turbocharging. You get compression when you mechanically build it into an engine. Building in compression takes time and money. It can also be destructive. Nitrous is surely productive and you can get there via a simple bolt-on and proper engine tuning. However, nitrous carries with it a certain amount of risk if you don’t know what you’re doing.
Supercharging has always been a bolt-on path to power, and lots of it. However, supercharging does not come cheap. It also requires in-depth knowledge of how supercharging works, along with a professional tune once the system is installed. The ROUSHcharger Phase 1 positive displacement supercharger (421823) can boost performance to 670 hp/545 ft-lbs of torque for the S550 2015–up Mustang GT 5.0L Ti-VCT V-8. The Roush and Ford Racing 2.3L Phase 1 calibrated ROUSHcharger Kit is part of the TVS (Twin Vortices Series) line of superchargers developed by Roush, which raises the bar for performance and reliability. Eaton’s TVS technology delivers more power and better fuel economy in a smaller package, which is what makes the ROUSHcharger good bang for the buck. This is the same caliber of quality and performance you get in a Roush Mustang.
The ROUSH R2300 TVS supercharger is a roots-type positive displacement supercharger that features twin four-lobe rotors that are twisted 160 degrees. By comparison, the original Eaton supercharger rotating assembly featured three lobes twisted 60 degrees. The fourth lobe and the additional twist, when combined with newly-redesigned air inlet and outlet ports, gives you greatly enhanced thermal efficiency, higher volumetric capacity, higher operating speeds, a smoother, more efficient flow of air into the engine, and improved noise and vibration characteristics.
Unlike turbocharging, the Roush R2300 2.3L supercharger provides instant throttle response void of lag and can generate abundant power throughout the engine’s entire power band. Galpin Auto Sport (GAS) in North Hills, California, understands the power of both Roush and Ford Motor Company. This is why GAS suggested the ROUSHcharger to a customer who decided to install the R2300 on his 2015 Mustang GT. Because safety was paramount to the customer, they opted for better brakes and suspension from GAS, yielding the ultimate street Mustang rocketship.
GAS invited me into its shop for a look over the shoulder of technician Daniel Torres, who performed the complete R2300 ROUSHcharger installation, run-in, and road test. It was learned during this installation that this is not an installation to be hurried. It must be performed with patience in step-by-step fashion following Roush’s instructions carefully. If you’re tempted to sidestep the instructions, don’t. Any detail missed is courting disaster and stands to void your warranty. When installation is complete, you must ship your PCM/ECU to Roush for programming. Never operate your supercharged Coyote engine without the Roush tune.
Supercharger Need to Know
Misinformation about the function of supercharger bypass systems abounds. The ROUSHcharger is a positive-displacement supercharger, or air pump. As long as it is rotating, it is always pumping air. During low demand or high manifold vacuum operation (i.e., idle, deceleration, and light-throttle cruise), the air pumping action is undesirable because it creates unwanted heat and noise. The bypass circuit, when open, prevents any overpressure at the supercharger and allows air to circulate through the rotors; it allows the supercharger to “idle” freely during these high-vacuum/low-pressure conditions. This results in reduced noise, and by reducing heat buildup in the intake, significantly improves street and strip performance.
As throttle demand increases, the bypass circuit is closed, resulting in maximum performance from the supercharger. The bypass circuit is never used to limit or control boost during full-throttle operation, and defeating or altering the bypass function does not result in improved performance in any condition, and results in poor drivability. You also risk engine damage in the process.
When your ROUSHcharger installation is complete, ship the PCM and its contents to ATTN: PCM FLASH, Roush Performance, 39555 Schoolcraft Road, Plymouth, MI 48170. Upon receipt of the PCM, a customer service representative will contact you to arrange payment and return.
When you’re installing your ROUSHcharger you’re not just installing a supercharger, you’re changing the vehicle’s entire induction and engine management system. This means you have to make the electronic engine control modifications Roush calls for in its instructions.
Step 1: First, locate the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) (six-pin) connector and harness at the front of the right-hand cylinder head (passenger side). Using a depinning tool, pop out the locking tab and remove the six-pin connector from the engine wiring harness. Depress the red locking tab and separate the empty female 1 x 6 connector from the new TPS/ETC Extension Harness (131114A595). It is used in the next step.
Step 2: Fit the new Roushprovided six-pin connector with the yellow/violet wire in position 1, the blue/green wire is in position 2, the brown wire is in position 3, the blue/orange wire is in position 4, the yellow wire is in position 5, and the green/violet wire is in position 6. Install the red plastic lock into the connector to secure all six wires in place. Connect the TPS/ETC Extension Harness (131114A595) from Hardware Kit E (1315-TVSHKE) to the newly installed six-pin TPS connector. The wire colors on each side of the connector pair should line up. Route the harness along the main wiring harness to the rear of the left-hand-side (driver) cam cover. Use tape or zip ties to secure the extension harness to the main harness.
Step 3: Locate the Evaporative Emissions Canister Purge Valve electrical connector (two-pin) at the front of the right-hand (passenger’s side) cylinder head. Using a depinning tool, remove the connector from the purge valve harness. Depress the locking tab and separate the empty female 1 x 2 connector from the Evaporative Emissions Canister Purge Valve Extension Harness (13119G866). This connector replaces the connector removed in the previous step. Carefully pull the white locking tab forward to allow wires to be installed into the connector. Fill the new connector to where the white/brown wire is in position 1 and the green wire is in position 2. Depress the white locking tab to secure these wires.
Step 4: Connect the Evaporative Emissions Canister Purge Valve Extension Harness (13119G866) to the newly installed connector. Wire colors on each side of the connector pair should line up. Route the revised harness along the main wiring harness to the rear of the right-hand-side (passenger) cam cover. Use tape or zip ties to secure the extension harness to the main engine harness.
Step 5: Next, locate the IMRC sensor connector (light gray) at the rear of the right-hand-side (passenger) cylinder head. Connect the IMRC sensor connector into the ACT wiring harness (1315-12A690), found in Hardware Kit E (1315-TVSHKE). Route the Roush extension wiring harness to the right-hand-side (passenger) cylinder head. Install the connector block (1315-14A464) found in Hardware Kit E (1315-TVSHKE) of your ROUSHcharger Kit, into the IMRC three-pin sensor connector (dark gray) located at the back of the left-hand-side (driver) cylinder head.
Step 6: Once you have modified the TPS and VPV connections, remove the wiring harness retainer and clip on the engine harness. Route both Roush extension harnesses along the engine harness. Secure them in place with zip ties. Again it is suggested you wrap and protect your harness with Powerbraid from Painless Performance. It protects better than the factory wrap and looks sharp.
Finally: If you’re doing a 2015– up 5.0L Coyote with CMCV, there are factory connections you have to disconnect and seal because CMCV is being eliminated with the ROUSHcharger installation. Next, pry up the engine harness retainers at the right-hand side of the engine and release the ground. Strip the wrap back. You’re going to have to relocate the ground wire. Install the pump ground wire with the existing ground wire near the right-hand strut tower and retighten.
Installation of the ROUSHcharger at GAS begins with removal of the factory 2015–up Charge Motion intake manifold. It is strongly suggested you take detailed pictures of your factory set-up before disassembly. This coupled with the ROUSHcharger installation instructions make it easy. Did you remember to disconnect the battery?
Locate the six-pin Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) connector and harness at the front of the right-hand-side (passenger) cylinder head. Using a proper pin removal tool, pop out the locking tab and remove the connector from the harness. To do this properly, you must consult Roush’s instructions and follow them in great detail. Instructions walk you through the process of electrical connection changes.
Pay strict attention to the Roush instructions and proper TPS wire/plug repositioning. The factory female connector plug is replaced with the six-pin connector provided in the ROUSHcharger kit. The six-pin TPS plug receives wire re-positioning, which is explained in great detail in the Roush instructions. Here, wires have been repositioned and the plug is ready for use.
Here’s the complete TPS installation and extension harness per Roush Performance, along with the connection.
The two modified TPS and evaporative emissions canister purge valve harnesses and extension harnesses are blended into the factory electronic engine control harnesses. It is suggested that you use PowerBraid wire wrap from Painless Performance to integrate and protect these harnesses.
Intercooler pump power comes from this terminal at the underhood fuse box. When you connect the pump and relay, do not overtighten the nut.
The evaporative emissions canister purge valve is transferred to the ROUSHcharger as shown. This solenoid valve is easily mistaken for an IAC (idle air control) solenoid. However, the Coyote and most drive-by-wire electronic engine control systems are not equipped with an IAC. Idle speed is controlled by the PCM/ECU via the throttle motor.
The ROUSHcharger comes with 47lb/hr EV14/US Car pencil-style injectors to meet the demands of this 2.3L Roush blower. However, you need more. Once installation is complete your PCM/ ECU requires a Roush tune to get everything on the same page.
The aftermarket offers a wealth of billet and stainless-steel fuel rails for the Ti-VCT Coyote. Russell, Earl’s, and BBK can set you up with braided hoses, fittings, and lines to support the rails.
Gasket technology has come a long way and the ROUSHcharger lower intake and intercooler are no exception. These high-tech silicone seals provide a positive bond between surfaces with virtually no chance of leakage. Check out the alignment pin for a perfect fit.
The 2015–up Coyote cylinder head is different from the 2011–2014 head. It has the extended intake port flange for the CMCV system, which entered production for 2015. The ROUSHcharger does not have the clearance issues you experience with the 2011–2014 stock intake. Note that GAS had to swing the knock sensor plug inboard to clear the manifold.
Torres sets the Roush lower intake manifold/ intercooler in place. This is an easy manifold to install, thanks to thoughtful engineering, better gasket technology, and alignment. It is impossible to get this wrong. Torque these bolts in crisscross fashion to 12 ft-lbs (8-12 Nm) in one-third values. Never overtighten.
The fuel rail and injectors are next, and the aftermarket offers plenty of fuel rails to choose from. GAS is going with the stock fuel rails on this one. Don’t forget to lube the injector O-rings prior to installation.
Daniel installs the ROUSHcharger R2300. Contact surfaces have been checked for debris and cleared for installation.
ROUSHcharger bolts are torqued crisscross to 25 ft-lbs (18 Nm). This is performed in one-third values.
This boss on the front timing cover must be cut as shown to make way for the ROUSHcharger drive package.
This Roush illustration demonstrates how the boss should be cut, with 20-mm left as shown (arrow). (Photo Courtesy Roush Performance)
The shaded/ lined surfaces A and B must be lower than or equal to this rib height on the front timing cover. (Photo Courtesy Roush Performance)
The fuel line and wiring harness should look like this on the left-hand (driver) side when installation is complete.
The twin blade throttle body and spacer are installed next; nothing to think about here because Roush has thought of it all for you. The throttle motor and TPS are already installed and synched, making plug and play installation easy
Here is a closer look at the TPS and VCV harnesses and how they’re secured to existing harnesses and hoses.
Positive crankcase ventilation plumbing is secured next. These are easy quick-connect fittings. All you have to do is click them into place. This is the time to think about an oil separator kit for your Coyote. PCV oil ingestion issues with the Coyote engine can cause engine damage at high RPM. Oil/air separators for the Coyote are available from Ford Performance as well as from JLT and Moroso.
This is the upper frontend accessory drive (FEAD) bracket, which is fastened to the front timing cover as shown. This cast-aluminum bracket supports the ROUSHcharger idler pulleys. Install the upper FEAD Bracket (1314-8B653U) using one M8 x 1.25 x 57 bolt, three (black) M8 x 1.25 x 60 bolts (11127083), and two M8 x 1.25 x 84 bolts (W704752) from Hardware Kit C (1315-TVSHKC). Torque the bolts to 18 ft-lbs (25 Nm).
Install two idler pulleys (953045) on the machined posts of the upper FEAD bracket. Secure the pulleys using two M8 x 1.25 x 28–mm idler bolts (R18020060) with washers found in Hardware Kit C (1315-TVHSKC). Torque bolts to 18 ft-lbs (25 Nm) with a 13-mm socket. Then, loosely install the FEAD Tensioner Bracket Assembly (13118B603) on the front timing cover using two M8 x 1.25 x 120–mm bolts (N811329) found in Hardware Kit C (1315-TVSHKC). Install the lowest bolt into the casting prior to positioning it in vehicle, in order to clear the sway bar (Mustang GT only).
The Low Temperature Radiator (LTR), or intercooler, is next. If you have a performancepack car, remove the two outboard bolts on the factory radiator support bracket (as viewed from below the vehicle). Install the LTR (1315-8K229) and secure the LTR into position with the two M8 x 16–mm bolts included in Hardware Kit H. Install two J-Clips (W520823) on both frame rail ends. Some trimming of the J-Clip may be required to install the J-Clip through the hole in the frame.
The LTR hose is connected next as shown. This is a tricky hose to get to. Use long duckbill pliers to install the clamp.
Here’s the intercooler pump, which is installed on the right-hand side. Using the intercooler pump bracket (1315-8C4191) as a template, place the pump bracket against the frame behind the wiper-fluid-reservoir mounting bracket as shown. Mark the holes for drilling and remove the intercooler pump bracket. The bracket is placed on the outside of the frame behind the windshield-wiperpump-reservoir bracket, making it easy to drill the holes. When installed, the intercooler pump and bracket are mounted on the inside of this section of the frame.
Reinstall the radiator cooling fans and secure to the radiator as shown, taking care to ensure all connections are completed.
Install the hose to the intercooler degas bottle inlet using the provided clamp (CT19X12) from Hardware Kit G (1315-TVSHKG). Install the hose to the intercooler cooler outlet using the provided clamp (CT19X12) from Hardware Kit G.
Here’s what your coolant recovery reservoir (left) and intercooler degas bottle (right) should look like. Although this is a coolant recovery reservoir, Roush calls it a “degas” bottle. It serves as a place to vent gasses and relieve any pressure.
The intake ducting and cold-air package are installed last. All of these components are provided in the ROUSHcharger R2300 kit.
This GAS 2015 Mustang GT coupe includes this 725-horse 5.0L Coyote with a 2.3L twin-screw front-feed Whipple supercharger, huge intercooler and plenum, and a 132-mm throttle body. The Whipple front entry system offers less intake restriction because it is a straight shot in. Front entry systems do not call for multiple 90-degree bends or one sweeping 180-degree bend before the supercharger inlet, which causes unequal rotor filling and lower volumetric efficiency. Of course, there are many different opinions about superchargers and which approach works best. Positive displacement superchargers such as the Whipple yield plenty of real boost for demanding power plants such as the Coyote. It is easily one of the more popular superchargers.
Edelbrock E-Force Boost
For quite some time the only way you could get Edelbrock E-Force was if you purchased the entire Edelbrock E-Force Aluminator Coyote crate engine. Now you can buy the bolt-on E-Force supercharger kit from Edelbrock and be ready to romp in a weekend. Edelbrock’s best people managed to get more than 700 hp from the E-Force positive displacement supercharger on top of a Ford Performance Racing Parts Aluminator crate engine. If you’re going to supercharge your Coyote with the Edelbrock E-Force it is suggested you keep boost conservative or opt for Edelbrock’s crate engine package, which is factory ready for 700 hp with Manley rods and Mahle forged pistons.
Kenne Bell Superchargers
Few companies are more serious about supercharged power than Kenne Bell. Kenne Bell’s twin-screw liquid-cooled superchargers are a nice compact package for your Coyote’s midsection. These systems tend to be more complex; however, they’re well worth the learning curve and expense for the power you get.
On the Kenne Bell website you find options for your 5.0L and 5.2L Coyote engine. The basic Kenne Bell 2.8/2.8LC supercharger packages can net 750 to 1,150 hp. The upscale Kenne Bell 3.2, 4.2, and 4.7L superchargers take you to the moon at 800 to 2,000 hp. However, none of this stuff comes free. When your horsepower goal is more than 600 it is strongly suggested you build a Coyote engine ready for this kind of power. You’re going to need a sleeved Coyote block, Eagle H-beamrods, Mahle forged pistons, and a steel core oil pump. Ideally, you have CNC-ported cylinder heads from Total Engine Airflow, available from Summit Racing Equipment. You most surely have to have a support system (brakes, suspension, and tires) to handle the power, including your own driving skill.
Kenne Bell clearly has a solid handle on “Twin Screw” supercharger technology. When Shelby was planning the “World’s Most Powerful Muscle Car,” he selected the ultra-efficient Kenne Bell 2.8H Kit to power the 725-hp Super Snake. Later on, the 3.6LC (Liquid Cooled) was enlisted for the new 800- and 850-hp versions. Then, 1,000-hp Shelbys with Kenne Bell’s 4.2. As far back as 2010, prior to the Coyote’s introduction, Kenne Bell stunned the supercharger world with patented liquid cooling, seal pressure equalizer, and the external spring bypass valve. In 2015, Shelby again chose the Kenne Bell 2.8 for the 750-hp 5.0L Super Snake. Saleen also opted for the Kenne Bell 2.8 for its 750-horse Mustang GT.
When you’ve chosen the Kenne Bell twin-screw supercharger be ready for the labor involved and the close attention to detail required. You have to remove your Mustang’s front fascia for liquid cooler access. This is a simple task involving the replacement of plastic rivets if any are damaged during removal. Front dress installation is straightforward with a simple serpentine belt drive for the supercharger and accessories. As long as you follow Kenne Bell’s detailed instructions with care you can install this system in a weekend.
Another important consideration is smog laws in your state. You must have a street legal smog system to make it through an emissions test. Each and every state has its own policy. Make sure the Kenne Bell system, and others, are street legal in your area.
Kenne Bell Supercharger Installation
To clear the Kenne Bell supercharger, the hood insulation blanket must be removed. (Photo Courtesy Kenne Bell)
The front fascia and radiator support cover must be removed to install the intercooler. These items are easy to remove and reinstall thanks to plastic press-in fasteners. (Photo Courtesy Kenne Bell)
Wheelhouses must be removed to make way for liquid cooler ductwork. Again, this is easy to accomplish thanks to press-in plastic fasteners. Ford has begun using these fasteners for ease of assembly. They are normally a one-time-use fastener, so you have to buy replacement fasteners. (Photo Courtesy Kenne Bell)
The washable air filter goes here in the left-hand (driver) wheelwell ahead of the wheelhouse. This is a cold-air induction system, which only adds to power. (Photo Courtesy Kenne Bell)
Here’s why the front fascia must be removed. The Kenne Bell intercooler installs here in front of the air conditioning condenser, which puts this guy out front into the heat-extracting slipstream. (Photo Courtesy Kenne Bell)
The intercooler pump is positioned here to the right (driver’s seat reference) of the intercooler. Power comes from the main power panel and fuse box. Power comes on with the ignition, which means no power with the ignition off. (Photo Courtesy Kenne Bell)
Here’s the 2015–2016 Mustang GT’s power distribution panel located underhood. This is a remarkable improvement to the Mustang’s electrical system because it is easy to access electrical connections, fuses, circuit breakers, and relays. (Photo Courtesy Kenne Bell)
This is the Kenne Bell intake manifold and intercooler. Although coolant is pretty warm at 200 degrees F, compressed air from the supercharger runs even hotter and under a lot of boost. The intercooler cools the compressed intake charge from the Kenne Bell twin-screw. When you consider the external intercooler in front, the cool-down and power gain is remarkable. (Photo Courtesy Kenne Bell)
The Kenne Bell Mammoth supercharger bolts on top of the manifold and intercooler. (Photo Courtesy Kenne Bell)
This huge single-blade 168-mm throttle body offers drive-through service. What this means for you is real CFM when the butterflies are pinned. (Photo Courtesy Kenne Bell)
This is the 4.125-inch standard Kenne Bell supercharger pulley, which should yield around 6.0 psi. A smaller 4.000-inch pulley should get you 7.0 psi. Take it down to a 3.875-inch pulley and get 10.0 psi, according to CarTech author Richard Holdener. (Photo Courtesy Kenne Bell)
This is the bypass valve (also known as a wastegate), which vents excess boost back into the intake (arrow). The bypass valve prevents the unthinkable: excess boost and detonation. (Photo Courtesy Kenne Bell)
Look at this huge 4.000-inch intake duct, which, as shown here, is actually a prototype part. This ensures you have plenty of volume when it’s time to open the throttle and get boost. (Photo Courtesy Kenne Bell)
Here’s the intake duct underneath, where it leads to the washable/reusable air filter behind the fascia. The MAF sensor is located in the intake duct just above the air filter in the engine compartment. (Photo Courtesy Kenne Bell)
The intercooler expansion tank is mounted here on the left-hand (driver) side near the brake master cylinder. (Photo Courtesy Kenne Bell)
Also included are urethane engine mounts, which are considerably smaller than the factory highabsorption mounts. These mounts are adjustable, which means you can lower the engine just enough for hood-tosupercharger clearances. (Photo Courtesy Kenne Bell)
When it comes to power adders, Ford’s Coyote isn’t much different from the rest, including its 4.6L and 5.4L Modular cousins. Like supercharging or nitrous systems, what you choose for your Coyote project depends on how far you want to go and how much risk you’re willing to take. There are several turbo systems out there, including complete systems and custom systems you can amass and build yourself.
Turbocharging is for those who are really serious about horsepower. You have to love turbocharging and you have to know something about it to do it successfully. Look to those who’ve turbocharged Coyotes successfully for your inspiration and good advice. If you’re planning all-out 8-second quarter-mile performance you don’t need this book to show you how to do it. For the rest of you, we’re going to touch on the basics of Coyote turbocharging here to get you headed in the right direction for acceptable street and weekend off-road performance.
Turbonetics and Innovative Turbo are among the most well known in the industry and where you should probably shop first. American Muscle is another option, as well as JPC Racing. If turbocharging is a must for you, get educated on turbocharging and turbo systems before running off in the heat of the day and spending a fortune. Know exactly what you want before spending a dime.
Some companies, such as UPR Products, make it straightforward to install a turbocharger system. UPR Products offers a twin-turbo system for the 2011–2014 and 2015–up Mustang GT. The top-mount twin-turbo kit is adjustable from 5 psi to more than 25 psi depending on your engine’s status. A 5-psi tune makes more than 600 hp at the drive wheels with a stock Coyote bottom end. This kit can make more than 1,200 drive wheel hp with 25 psi if your engine is precision-built with H-beam rods and forged pistons.
There’s also a new UPR Products Hellion twin-turbo system for the all-new 2015–up Mustang GT. This is a chassis-dyno-proven system where these folks made 949.26 hp and 806.87 ft-lbs of torque with a 2015 Mustang GT at the rear wheels at just under 7,000 rpm with a stock Coyote bottom end. This kind of brutal testing proves the kind of power this engine can make and stay together.
If you opt for a Ford Performance Aluminator crate engine, all you have to do is order the engine and drop it in prior to installing the Hellion twin-turbo kit. Watch compression while you’re doing this. Boosted applications call for 9.5:1 compression. Though UPR Products accomplished this feat with a stock Coyote bottom end, it is strongly suggested you spec your Coyote for the mission or order up a Ford Performance Aluminator crate engine built and tested for your street/strip agenda. If you’re anticipating more than 600 hp, build for that power with heavy-duty I- or H-beam rods and forged pistons. Focus on improved cooling at the rear of your Coyote’s cylinder heads and block with the cooling kit from Modular Motorsports.
While you’re at it, cam accordingly with a cam and valvetrain engineered for boosted applications. Ford Performance and Comp Cams can help with camshaft packages engineered for boost applications, making it easier than ever to dial “blow” into your Coyote Mustang or F-Series truck.
Written by Jim Smart and Posted with Permission of CarTechBooks